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The Author begs to inform the public, thai he has it 
in contemplation to publish a Series of Trials by Inqui- 
sition, both in Spanish and English, with facsimiles of the 
signatures of the Inquisitor and his officers, the Notary and 
the accused. The original manuscripts, which were stolen 
from the Court of Inquisition at Lima, at the time of its de- 
struction by the populace of that city, are now in possession 
of the Author, and have been examined by several gentlemen 
of literary talents, who concur in opinion, that they ought 
not only to be translated into the English language, but that 
the MS. should then be deposited in some safe, but public in- 
stitution. At present it is impossible for the Author to form 
any idea relative to the expenses attendant on such an under- 
taking ; but as soon as an estimate can be given, he will lay 
before the public a prospectus of the work, and should he 
meet with a liberal support, those documents, of a nature so 
exceedingly curious, will not be withheld. 

The Author will chearfully gratify the curiosity of any 
gentleman who may be desirous of perusing them, and those 
who are inclined to patronize the work, are requested to for- 
ward their names to Messrs. Law fy Whittaker, Ave 
Maria Lane, London. 



'•' •■■■"a y^ • v- 



J'tpl^tWfitti 




2S$&3im 



Patooxee 







Zf>t WnUn'ti Togajj*, 



TO 



pitcairn's island. 



BY LIEUT. J. SHILLJBEER, R. M. 



ILLUSTRATED WITH EIGHTEEN ETCHINGS BY THE AUTHOR, 
FROM DRAWINGS ON THE SPOT. 



Taunton : 

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR BY J. W. MARRIOTT, 

Add Published by Law and Whittaker, Ave Maria Lane, London ; (tod 
may be had of all Booksellers in Town and Country. 



1817. 



5? 



TO THE 



OFFICERS 



OF THE 



<£ovpjS of &ogal Jftarttteg, 



AND 



ROYAL MARINE ARTILLERY, 

THIS WORK 



IS AS A 

SMALL TRIBUTE OF HIS HIGH ESTEEM 

MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, 

BY THEIR 
MOST OBEDIENT, AND VERY HUMBLE SERVANT, 

JOHN SHILL1BEER, Lieut. R. M. 

Walkhampton, March 17, 1817. 




PREFAC 



v/NE of the most ordinary features of a 
prefatory address being- that of propitiating 
the public opinion, the writer of the fol- 
lowing pages ventures on this part of his 
task with a persuasion., that in few cases 
could the liberality of the reader be more 
required, or perhaps more justified, than on 
the present occasion. 

The motives for committing the fol- 
lowing Narrative to the press, were not such 
as usually actuate adventurers in the paths 
of Literature. Certainly neither the calcu- 
lation of interest nor the hope of reputation 
propelled the author to his undertaking. 
The too frequently recorded disappoint- 
ments of those who, uninitiated in the mys- 
teries of the pre^s, presume to look to it for 
indemnity for their labours, prevent his in- 
dulging in a similar delusion, and he is too 



II 

conscious of his deficiencies, to entertain 
the most distant hope of distinction by his 
present humble performance. The motive, 
then, to be explained, is simply that of com- 
plying with the solicitations of many of his 
friends, the companions of his voyage, who, 
relying on the fidelity of his observations, 
wish to preserve a narrative of those events 
in which their feelings were equally interest- 
ed with his own. This, mingled with a faint 
hope that, in some particulars, the circum- 
stances described will not be entirely without 
interest to the public, have led to the produc- 
tion of this volume. The illustrations will, 
perhaps, have their best apology in the fact 
of their having been executed by the author 
for his amusement, and in their being the 
first productions of his attempts at graphic 
delineation. Of the style and phraseology 
of his work, he is fully sensible how much 
lie stands in need of every indulgent consi- 
deration. A life of arduous duty, within the 
confines of a ship, admits of little opportu- 
nity of acquiring either grace of couiposi- 



Ill 



tion or accuracy of language. The writer 
is perfectly aware how vulnerable he is to 
criticism on this ground; but there is one 
consideration which may redeem this humble 
performance from the obloquy to which it 
might otherwise be exposed, and this he 
presents to the reader, in the solemn pledge, 
that whatever may be the defects of his per- 
formance, the want of truth will, in no in- 
stance, be found to augment the literary 
delinquencies of which he may be found 
guilty. 



The Names of Officers belonging to the Briton, 
0/44 Guns and 300 Men. 



Sir T.STAINES, K.C.B. 
JAMES WILKIE, 
J. W. PROWSE, . 
RODNEY SHANNON, 
C.B.LOUIS, . . 
JOHN SHILLIBEER 
IT. BENNETT, . 
ALEX. BARR, . 
E. TUTTIETT, . 
PETER FORREST, 

BLAKE, . 

THOS. STUART, . 
GEO. LE PINE, . 

ROBERTSON, 

ROBINSON, 

JOHN BROWN, . 
Mr. CROZIER, . 

WOODTHORPE 

SKYRING, . 

— BROOMAN, . 
BLACKMORE, 

— TYLDEN, . . 

GANETT, . . 

GALINDO, . 

SMITH, . . . 

RIDOUT, . . 



Captain. 

1st Lieutenant. 

2d Ditto. 

3d Ditto. 

4th Ditto. 

1st Lieut, commanding R.M= 

2d Ditto. 

Surgeon. 

Assistant Surgeon, 

Purser. 

Clerk. 

Master's Mates. 

Carpenter. 
Boatswain. 
Gunner. 



>-Midskipmen. 




A NARRATIVE 



BRITONS VOYAGE, 



PITCAIRN'S ISLAND. 



CHAPTER I. 



IMotwithstAxXding the variety of publi- 
cations which have at different times appear- 
ed on this subject, I feel it is impossible that a 
voyage to the South Seas can, under any cir- 
cumstance, be devoid of interest, and as a more 
than ordinary share has been attached to the 
one so recently completed by H. M. Frigate 
Briton, I have, at the solicitation of my friends, 
been induced to submit to the notice of the 
public, the observations which occured to me 
during the period of my employment on that 
service. 



2 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

December 31, 1813. 

It was late in the month of December when 
the Fleet destined for the East Indies and South 
America had collected at Spithead, and the 
Commodore availing himself of the first east- 
erly breeze, proceeded without tarrying at St. 
Helens, into the English Channel. In a few 
days we had cleared the western promontory 
of England, and early on the morning of the 
25 th day from our departure, we made the 
Island of Madeira. During the two preced- 
ing days it had blown with exceeding great 
violence, nor was the wind abated when the 
Fort William Indiaman became disabled and 
in want of immediate assistance, which oc- 
casioned our separation from the Fleet, and 
ultimate change of destination. It was two 
days 'ere we could reach the anchorage of 
Funchall, when ail our mechanics were set to 
work, and from the most exemplary exertions 
of Sir Thomas Staines, we were on the eighth 
day again enabled to put to sea. 

At our approach to this anchorage, I was 
very much pleased with the appearance of the 
town, as well as with the beauties of the 
scenery, which, altho' in the depth of winter, 
bore a very agreeable aspect, 

Funchall, the capital of the Island, in latitude 
S2«37 ;/ N. and longitude, 16° \5 J/ W. is 



briton's voyage. 3 

situated on the side of a steep mountain, form- 
ing a kind of amphitheatre, prettily interspers- 
ed with vines and trees of various sorts with 
which tire Island abounds. It is of considerable 
extent, and rather regularly built, the streets 
narrow, but from a constant run of w T ater thro' 
many of them, they are comparatively clean. 
The inclination of this mountain gives the 
houses at the upper part of the town, an ex- 
tensive view, not only of the beach below, but 
also of the adjacent Islands, known by the name 
of the Deserters. 

The rivers running thro* the town, are at 
some periods of considerable size, and prin- 
cipally supplied from the snow, which, dur- 
ing the greater part of the year, clothes the 
summits of the mountains, from whence they 
issue and run with a rapidity, impeded alone 
by the massive rocks* with which their courses 
abound, until they discharge themselves into 
the sea. 

The fortifications are but few and of little 
import, and the troops which occupied them, 
were part of the English Veteran Battalions. 

The town possesses several churches, but 
none of them are handsome, and with the ex- 
ception of a massive pair of silver gates in front 
of one of the altars, there is nothing worthy of 
notice. 



* A NARRATIVE OF THE 

I did not perceive a single painting of arty 
merit in either of them. There is an extensive 
college for the instruction of youth, in all the 
branches of literature, and I was given to un- 
derstand a great many young gentlemen are 
sent here from Portugal to receive their educa- 
tion. There is a dominican and a benedictine 
monastery, and to the latter (which is the only 
thing curious or worthy the notice of a stranger) 
is attached a small chapel formerly known by 
the name of the chapel of "All Souls," and had 
for its motto " memento mori," but it is now 
better known by that of Golgotha, which ap- 
pellation it has obtained from its being entirely 
lined with human skulls and bonesf Its in- 
terior has no other tracery. Of its origin I 
could only learn, that it was founded by some 
religious persons, who at their death btqueath- 
ed -property to a considerable amount, on con- 
dition that a certain number of masses should 
be daily said for the repose of their souls, un- 
der the penalty of losing such bequests in case 
qf the slightest neglect ; but notwithstanding 
this precaution, the chapel has not for many 
years been used for any other purpose than to 
gratify the curiosity of the traveller, nor could 
I ascertain that the masses were continued to 
be said in any other place, altho' the Priests 
still continue to receive the benefit arising from 
the estates so bequeathed. 




ftrw *» £tch(Z> <V t, t --#MJt(>'»r~T>- 



chiton's voyage. 



The climate is particularly fine, insomuch 
that Funchall and its vicinity is frequently the 
resort of invalids, but few, I fear, have suffici- 
ent resolution to withstand either the tempta- 
tion of its natural luxuries, or the hospitality 
of its Anglo inhabitants, and reap the full bene- 
fit of its renovating salubrity. 

The invalid can avail himself of a tempera- 
ture the most suited tohisimmediatecomplaint, 
by being carried up or down the mountain : 
he is also enabled to enjoy the most delicious 
fruits, and not only those natural to the Island, 
but of his own country. 

The scenery of this Island is peculiarly 
romantic — precipices of stupendous height, 
covered with most delightful foliage, here and 
there interspersed with huts, and cataracts pre- 
cipitating from rock to rock in awful grandeur, 
until meeting from various directions among 
the trees and cottages at the bottom, they 
form one general stream, which roars as it pur- 
sues its course to the town. 

The chapel on the mount, stands in a most 
beautiful situation, but possesses nothing wor- 
thy of notice, except the loveliness of its site, 
which affords a view as delightful as can pos- 
sibly be conceived ; and altho' the journey to 
it is tiresome, the stranger will be fully repaid 



V A NARRATIVE OF THE 

for Iiis labor by making it a visit. The priest 
who lives adjoining the chapel, I found to be a 
very intelligent man, and he treated me with 
great civility. 

The inns, whether Portuo-uesc or English, are 
much below mediocrity, and notwithstanding 
the little accomodation and abundance of filth, 
their charges are enormous ; and to make the 
latter still more grievous, the English one pound 
bank note, was then only current at fourteen 
shillings. 

I was greatly surprised at finding the theatre 
so good : it is handsome, spacious, and in every 
lespect convenient. It was built a few years 
ago by subscription, and the most consider- 
able contribution was made by the English 
merchants residing there, which may in some 
measure account for its being both in the Eng- 
lish style, and equal in beauty to any of our 
provincial theatres. 

About this period one of the most zealous of 
the English residents proposed the erection of a 
protestant church, and from the place of amuse- 
ment having been reared with the rapidity of 
a meteor, he calculated on a liberal support ; 
but so few persons came forward on this oc- 
casion, that the project was relinquished and the 
few donations returned to the donors. This has 
been a subject of some mirth to the Portuguese. 



briton's voyage. 7 

Little, independent of wine, is produced in. 
the Island, so that the vine is every where cul- 
tivated with the greatest care. Not a spot 
however rugged, but is turned to advantage. 

There area great many slaves here, who are 
treated less cruelly than in most of the Portu- 
guese settlements'. They are seldom allowed 
mote clothing than a coarse rag tied round 
their middle. 

On the Fort William beinof in readiness to 
proceed, we weighed anchor, put. again to sea, 
and after passing thro' the Cape de Verde is- 
lands and a voyage of little interest, we arrived 
at Rio de Janiero. 



A NARRATIVE OP I If* 



CHAPTER II. 

On the evening of the 20th of March, we 
intered the harbour of Rio de Janiero, where we 
found Vice-Admiral Dixon with a small En- 
glish force. Early next morning the Portu- 
guese flag was saluted, which compliment was 
acknowledged by a small battery on the island 
of Cobrus. * 



* In one of the dungeons of this island, it is said there is at 
this moment confined a subject of Great Britain, and that 
Lord Strangford and Sir Sidney Smith have used every mea- 
sure to effect his liberation, but to no purpose. The report 
runs thus ; — that about three years prior to the Portuguese 
court being removed to this place, an English sailor in a 
state of intoxication happened to be in the streets of Lisbon, 
tvhen the precession of the Host was passing, and from ig- 
norance did not follow the example of the Portuguese in 
falling on his knees. A friar endeavoured to enforce it, 
■when the sailor fancying himself attacked, gave battle, and 
the holy gentleman was soon laid prostrate. Our coun- 
tryman was overpowered, committed, tried, and condemn, 
cd ; but by the Immunity at all times so conspicuous iu 
Catholic countries, his sentence of death was commuted for 
perpetual confinement in a dungeon, and when the court 
moved from Lisbon, he also was put on board one of their 
ships, and conveyed to Rio Janiero where he now lingers 
out a miserable existence. If this story be true, and I have 
heard it confidently asserted to be so, this unfortunate 
young man has been for a long series of years, a most melan- 
choly victim to the unrelenting and unparalleled tyranny of 
a government which owes its ?ery existence to that of his 
own country I ! 1 




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J 



^ JfA* fyfuj of (Pfcnjl gftJ/ftjlwrii i tf JJ," ,/ %0-frrtt*/ ffico f &, <JcvtuoYv^) ■ 



briton's voyage. 9 

The ciry of San Sebastian, the capital of the 
Portuguese dominions in South America, and 
residence of the Prince Regent, is situated on 
the south side ot an extensive harbour, whose 
entrance is so exceedingly narrow and well for- 
tified by nature, that with the smallest assistance 
of art it could be rendered impiegnable against 
any attack from the sea. The fort of Santa 
Cruz, and a very remarkable mountain, from 
its shape bearing the name of the Sugar Loaf, 
form the entrance at the distance of about a 
mile. There is a bar which runs across, but 
the water is at all times sufficiently deep to al- 
low the largest ship to pass. Santa Cruz may 
be considered the principal fortification, and is, 
with the exception of two small islands com- 
manding the channel, the onlv one in a tolera- 
ble state of defence. At the foot of the sugar 
loaf mountain, is a battery of considerable ex- 
tent, but so neglected, like several others along 
the shore, that it is almost become useless. 

The city derives but little protection from 
its immediate fortifications, and the island of 
Cobrus, notwithstanding its contiguity, is now 
but little calculated to render it any. 

There are wharfs and stairs for the purpose 
of landing at, but the most convenient is at 
the great square, in which the Prince resides. 
The palace was originally the mansion of a 

c 



ib 



A NARRATIVE OF THE 



merchant : it is extensive, but has nothing par- 
ticularly magnificent in its appearance, to in- 
dicate its being the royal residence of the illus- 
trious house of Braganza. 

At the bottom of this square, is a very good 
fountain, which is supplied with water from the 
adjacent mountains, and conveyed some dis- 
tance by the means of an aqueduct. 

The water is not good, and on first using it, 
causes a swelling accompanied with pain in the 
abdomen. Ships may be supplied with con- 
siderable expedition. 

It is almost impossible for a person possess- 
ing the least reflection, to pass this spot without 
being struck by the contrast, which must ne- 
cessarily present itself to him. — On the one 
hand, he may contemplate the palace of a 
voluptuous prince, surrounded by courtiers 
and wallowing in luxury, on the other, slavery 
in its most refined and horrible state. 

Leaving the square, you enter a street of con- 
siderable length and width, in which the cus- 
tom house, the residence of theBritish consul, 
&c. &c. are situated. 

The houses are generally well built, some of 
the streets are good, and all exceedingly filthy. 
The shops are well supplied with British as 
well as other wares, and whether the vender be 
English or Portuguese, he is equally uncon- 



briton's voyage. 11 

sionable in his demand. Most of the streets 
are designated by the trades which occupy 
them. — As in Shoe-street, you will find shoe 
makers; in Tin-street, tin men ; in Gold-street, 
goldsmiths, lapidaries, &c. — Gold-street is the 
chief attraction, and is generally the resort of 
strangers, who are anxious to supply themselves 
with jewellery or precious stones natural to the 
country : but it is not always they are fortu/ 
nate enough to succeed in getting them real, for 
since it has become the royal residence, it has 
drawn such a host of English, Irish, and Scotch 
adventurers, and the Portuguese being such 
apt scholars in knavery, that among them it 
is ten to one you are offered a piece of paste for 
a diamond, — among the former it is but seldom 
otherwise. The Inns, although better than in 
many places, can boast of no excellence. 

This city posseses a considerable number of 
churches, but they are by no means splendid, 
and excepting in the Chapel Royal, which is 
adjoining the palace, I observed nothing worthy 
of notice. Here may be seen a few good por- 
traits of the Apostles. The altar piece is mo- 
dern, and contains the full length figures of the 
prince and family kneeling before the holy virgin. 

The theatre and opera are attached also to the 
palace, but possess no particular elegance. The 
market is well supplied with every article, and 



12 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

is in so eligible a situation, that with a com- 
paratively small portion of trouble, it might be 
kept in fine order : but the people are idolaters 
to filthiness, and not less slaves to it than to 
superstition. 

The laws of this place seem to be very de- 
ficient ; without money it is impossible to 
obtain justice, and with it you can prevent its 
being administered. The murder of a lay-sub- 
ject is scarcely ever punished ; the least insult 
to the church, most rigorously. 

The trade with this port is very consider- 
able, and from various countries. There is a 
Chinese warehouse of great extent, and at cer- 
tain peiiods, articles from China may be pro- 
cured at a low rate. This establishment is 
propagating with the greatest assiduity the 
Tea-plant, and from the progress they have al- 
ready made, I am authorised in drawing a con- 
clusion of its ultimately being of so great impor- 
tance to Europe, that instead of China, the 
Brazils will be the grand mart for this dearly 
beloved article. 

The country for a considerable distance 
round, is peculiarly beautiful; the mountains 
high and woody ; the vallies perfect gardens ; 
fruits of the most delicious nature are found 
here in great abundance, and the orange ap- 
pears to be a never failing tree ; the quantity 



briton's voyage. 13 

of this fruit I have seen exhibited for sale, in 
the orange market is astonishing, and on the 
same tree is often to be seen the blossoms, the 
fruit in its primitive state, some half ripe, and 
others fit for use. The pine apple is also here, 
and in great perfection. In the neighbourhood 
there are several botanical gardens, chiefly be- 
longing to private individuals. Many plants 
but rarely to be met with in England, were 
brought from them in the Briton. 
The naval department of the Portuguese is 
not great, but they had commissioned several 
sail of the line, and "ere we left the port five 
of them with some frigates and corvettes were 
ready for sea.— Many others of various classes 
were moored off the Arsenal, which is of some 
extent, and situated near the Island of Cobrus. 

The harbour ot Rio de Janeiro is spacious, 
and was the heat less oppressive, it might be 
esteemed as one of the most desirable in the 
the world. There is a breeze from the sea 
generally about noon, which cools the atmos- 
phere and renders it in some degree bearable. 

Notwithstanding the entrance is so narrow, 
the harbour increases to the width of three of 
four leagues, in which gulf or basin are nume- 
rous small islands, some of them possessing vil- 
lages, others gentleman's seats only. The 
water becomes soon shallow, so that at a small 



14 A NARRATIVE OP THE 

distance above the island containing the British 
Hospital, it is not sufficiently deep for a vessel 
of any burden to pass : but a great trade is car- 
ried on by means of large boats. The whole 
of those islands are very picturesque. 

The district of Braganza situated immediately 
opposite the city of St. Sebastian, is also very 
fine, possessing the small town of Braganza 
and a few villages along the coast. Sir 
S. Smith has here an estate of considerable 
extent, which was presented him by the 
Prince Regent in compliment for the services 
he had rendered him. 

The water-fall at Tajuca is about eleven 
miles from the city, and is worthy the notice 
of a traveller. The fall is not perpendicular, 
but broken by the massive rocks which project, 
and which add greatly to its beauty. The 
scenery around it is romantic and wild, and 
until you come to the very spot, the noise of 
the water is the only indication of your being 
near it. It is about sixty feet high. On the 
left hand of the entrance to this place, is a mas- 
sive and overhanging rock, supported only by 
three small stones, and where are deposited the 
remains of a monk belonging to one of the 
monasteries at the city, who in his life con- 
ceived so great a partiality for this spot, that 
he requested to be buried there when dead. 



briton's voyage. 15 

The tomb is oblong, built of bricks, with 
two steps leading to it, — bearing no inscrip- 
tion, but is covered with the names of those 
people who have been there. Under this place 
there is a seat for the accomodation of visitors, 
and also two niches, but for what purpose 
they were placed there, I cannot ascertain, 
altho' they evidently appear to have been 
intended to receive a Bust, Urn, or something 
of that nature. 

The inhuman and barbarous traffic of slaves, 
is carried on to the greatest extent it is possible 
to be imagined, and as the immediate and pri- 
vate revenue of the Crown, would receive a 
severe shock by the abolition of so unnatural 
a barter, there can be, I fear, but little hopes 
of so desirable an object being speedily effect- 
ed, without the humanity of the European 
states turning their recommendations into com- 
mands, and enforcing compliance, which lam 
persuaded would be the case were the differ- 
ent legislators but faintly impressed with the 
horrors that constantly occur at this place, and 
the barbarity to which those unhappy people 
are hourly subjected. — The labour let it be 
ever so laborious, is performed by slaves, and 
it is seldom there are more than six apporti- 
oned to the heaviest burdens. I have fre- 
quently seen as few as four groaning under 



16 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

the weight of a pipe of wine, wK' h they have 
had to remove through the town. Many of 
those poor creatures are bred to trades, and are 
sent out daily or weekly by their masters with 
orders to bring hi in a certain sum at the expi- 
ration of that time, and what they can get 
over they may consider as their own : but 
they are always so highly rated, that it is with 
the greatest difficulty they can raise the sum 
nominated ; and in case ofdefalcation, it is at- 
tributed to a want of exertion or laziness which 
subjects the unhappy victim to a punishment, 
for a crime, the master alone has committed. 

Nothing can be more common than instances 
of this nature, and as the following was related 
to me by a respectable British merchant, I can 
rely on its veracity : — 

'* A man" said he " possessing a few slaves 
may be considered of good property, particu- 
larly, if he bought them when young and has 
brought them up to trades. With a man of 
this kind I am acquainted, who is as barbarous 
and remorseless a wretch as can be conceived, 
he has several slaves and as they have all been 
taught some trade or other, he sends them forth 
to earn according to their occupations, certain 
sums and their food, which must be completed 
under a penalty (which is seldom remitted even 
to the most industrious or lucky) of a severe 



briton's voyage. 17 

flogging. One of those (continued he) was a 
barber, and for a considerable period shaved 
me every morning : he was a quiet man, and of 
great industry, and, as far as came under my 
observation, always on the alert for his mas- 
ter's interest. For several days I observed he 
bore a gloomy and melancholy appearance. 
I asked him the reason, and was informed he 
had been unsuccessful, and could not render 
to his master the sum required ; that he had 
little hopes of being able to raise it, and as little 
doubt of being punished. I gave him some- 
thing towards it. When he came again, he in- 
formed me, that out of thirteen or fourteen, he 
alone had escaped the lash ; but, if he did not 
make up the deficiency, his would be of greater 
severity than had been inflicted on his com- 
panions. 

As the time approached when he must ren- 
der to his master an account, he became great- 
ly distressed, and despaired of accomplishing 
his promise. He went with tears in his eyes, 
tendered what he had gained, and assured him 
of having used every means to raise the specific 
sum, and implored a remission of punishment, 
or a suspension until the following Monday, 
which at length was granted him, but not 
without threats of many additional stripes in 
case of failure. The time fast approached, 

D 



18 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

when he must return. He was still deficient. 
He reached the door of his master's house, 
when, in despair of being forgiven, and dread- 
ing the ordeal he had to undergo, he took 
from his pocket a razor, and with a desperate 
hand nearly severed his head from his body. 
I saw him, several days after, lying in this 
mangled state near the place, where he had 
perpetrated it. This horrid deed had no other 
effect on the master, than to increase his seve- 
rity towards the others, on whom he imposed 
heavier burthens, to recompense him for the 
loss he had so recently sustained. 

I inquired the cause of so many slaves ly- 
ing dead in the streets, and was assured, that 
when they were ill and thought past recovery, 
they were disowned by their masters, to evade 
the expenses of a funeral, and thrown out of 
doors, when their miserable lives were soon 
brought to as miserable a termination. When 
any of these bodies are found, (which con- 
stantly occurs,) there is a soldier placed over 
it with a box, nor is the corpse removed from 
the spot, until a sufficient sum has been left 
by the passengers to defray the expenses at- 
tendant on the interment. I witnessed several 
instances of this nature during the period we 
lay in the harbour. The cruelties these un- 
happy people are subjected to, is more calcu- 



briton's voyage. IS 

lated to fill a volume, than to be brought with- 
in the narrow compass of so small a work as 
this ; and, I am sorry to say, the Europeans, of 
whatever nation, instead of setting a humane 
example to wretches whose hearts had been 
long callous to every feeling of sensibility, 
vie with each other in minutely imitating their 
unfeeling conduct. 

On the 28th of March, every thing being 
ready for sea, we expected to sail with our 
charge; but some intelligence of importance 
having been received from the Pacific Ocean, 
the Fort William was detained, and we, instead 
of doubling the Cape of Good Hope, were 
ordered into the colder region of Cape Horn, 
round which I shall hope to lead the reader 
early in the next chapter. 





RECEIVED: 

■ 



20 A NARRATIVE OF THL 



CHAPTER III. 



All communication with the shore having 
ceased, we discovered the object of our voyage 
to the South Sea, to be the United States frigate 
Essex, which had done considerable injury to 
our whale-fishery, and was then, according to 
the best information, refitting in the port of 
Valparaiso. 

From the season being so far advanced, we 
had every reason to anticipate an inclement 
and boisterous passage round Cape Horn; but, 
by the pleasing hope at all times so fondly 
cherished by British sailors, of gaining glory in 
so remote a region, the storms were conquered 
'ere they came, and in imagination we were al- 
ready at the entrance of the wished-for port. 

The wind from the south-east, which may 
be almost deemed periodical, had commenced, 
which greatly prolonged our voyage, inso- 
much that it was not before the 3d of May 
we got into 62° 33' south latitude, when a 
strong breeze from the pole soon wafted us 
by the inhospitable shores of Terra del Fuego 
to the coast of Chili. It will be hardlv ne- 



briton's voyage. 21 

cessary for me to inform the reader, that in so 
high a latitude we found the cold excessive, 
and the weather tempestuous. Thermometer 
at 23°. During the whole of the 2d, the 
wind blew with such violence, that we found it 
impossible to set the smallest sail; and the sea 
bore a more terrific appearance than I had ever 
before seen, or wish again to witness. We 
did not see any ice, nor had we any snow sub- 
sequent to passing the coast of Patagonia ; but 
rain in abundance, and, unfortunately, the 
men were badly supplied with warm clothing, 
which occasioned in the sick-list a frightful 
augmentation. As we proceeded to the south- 
ward, the common sea-gull became scarce; and 
before we reached the latitude of the Falkland 
Islands, they had wholly disappeared, and 
were succeeded by birds of beauteous plumage, 
called by navigators " Pigeon de mer." Those 
increased in number as we approached the pole, 
and left us again in the Pacific Ocean, when 
they were replaced by a species considerably 
larger, and quite black. About the latitude of 
43° south, we were joined by some albatrosses 
of great size, but they did not continue with 
us long. 

We made the land near the island of Chiloe, 
and, after passing the island of Mocho, and ex- 
periencing variable winds, arrived at Valpa- 



522 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

raiso on the 21st of May, where we found the 
object of our pursuit a prize to his Majesty's 
ships, the Phoebe and Cherub, and preparing 
to sail for England. The Tagus was also 
there. 

Our men, from so long a passage, and being 
so much exposed, added to the great want of 
warm clothing, were become very sickly, in- 
somuch that the surgeon's list was increased 
to 109; but, being abundantly supplied with 
every species of provision, and the most marked 
attention being paid to their comfort, it was 
soon reduced to a comparatively small number. 
Thermometer from 48° to o9°. Our refit was 
hastened as much as possible; and on the 10th 
day from our arrival, after taking on board a 
number of the Loyalist party, who had been 
prisoners in Chili, we sailed in company with 
the Phoebe, her prize, and the Tagus : the two 
former being bound round Cape Horn, we 
parted from them off the island of Juan Fer- 
nandez, and proceeded, in company with the 
Tagus, to Callao, the port of Lima, where 
we arrived in fourteen days, and had ten days' 
relaxation. During this period, we received 
frequent visits from the Limanians, who arc 
passionately fond of aquatic excursions, and 
shew great interest when the object in view 
is a British man of war. On our part, we 



BRITONS VOYAGE. 23 

made frequent parties to the great city, and to 
an eminent degree experienced the hospitality 
of its inhabitants. The ladies being pretty, 
and possessing a more than ordinary share of 
interesting vivacity, we were led so impercep- 
tibly to the period of departure, that it had 
arrived 'ere we could have hoped it had half 
elapsed. Thermometer from 64° to 68° (on 
board) ; on shore at 80°. 

I am aware it may be expected I should here 
give some account of this famous city, and I 
should do so, had we not returned to it again, 
when I had a greater opportunity, not only of 
making personal observations, but of collecting 
a great many materials necessary for that pur-* 
pose : I shall therefore crave the indulgence of 
postponing it for a while, and in the interim I 
will take a brief view of the ports we touched 
at along the coast, as well as the Gallipago 
Islands. 

Leaving the anchorage of Callao, (June 26,) 
and sailing along the coast, which at times 
presented a pleasing or dreary aspect, accord- 
ing as it became more or less cultivated or 
inhabited, we arrived at Paita, on the 2d of 
July ; a place of little consequence, although 
rendered of great historical celebrity, by the 
unseasonable visit paid it by Lord Anson, 
during his voyage in 1740, and whose name 



24 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

we found still familiar among several of the 
families, whose ancestors he so ingeniously 
(and without ceremony too) unloaded of their 
cash. Soon after we had anchored, the gover- 
nor, and a long tatterdemalion retinue, came 
off to wait upon the captain; and while they 
are looking at the ship, I will take a peep into 
the town, which is situated in latitude 5° 16' S. 
and in longitude 81° W. under a dry, barren, 
and sterile cliff, and consists of two or three 
rows of wretched houses, built of mud and bam- 
boo, principally without roofs, and the most 
magnificent among them only covered with a 
thin hollow matting : however, this may with 
ease be accounted for, as Paita is situated with- 
in that latitude on the coast of Peru, where it 
was never known to rain. The interior parts 
of the houses present a very miserable appear- 
ance ; yet, I was assured, the inhabitants were 
very wealthy. The east end of the church 
alone was covered, like the houses, with a 
coarse matting. There are four bells attached 
to it, and are hung at a little distance on a 
frame of wood, resembling an English gibbet. 
The internal part of this sanctuary, as may be 
supposed, afforded nothing to describe. 

On a little eminence to the south of the 
town, is a small battery, calculated to, and 



briton's voyage. <c5 

mounting eight long brass pieces of ordnance, 
which are so badly equipped that I think is 
probable they would not stand a second dis- 
charge. This place is badly supplied with 
water, nor do I imagine it possible for shipp- 
ing to procure any quantity adequate to their 
consumption, without great difficulty. The 
country for many leagues is barren, and un- 
cultivated. Piura is the nearest town, in 
whose jurisdiction it is. 

In the afternoon, the b overnor, chief officers, 
and families, to the number of a score, came 
off to a dinner, which the captain had prepared 
for them, when those people, who in the morn- 
ing appeared in as great a state of destitution 
as their houses, were clad in the most fantastic 
and costly attire. Some of them had even 
been resolute enough to shave themselves. 
The old priest, who besides his spiritual situa- 
tion, kept a considerable shop, wishing to 
make hay while the sun-shone, brought off 
with him a bale of Guayaquil hats, one of 
which I bartered for an old pair of silk stock- 
ings, being more esteemed than money, but 
I do not imagine he found a very brisk sale. 

The fashion for the ladies to go without 
pockets, was clearly proved, not to have reached 
this place, for the captains steward having 
missed some plate, and fancying he saw one 

E 



£6 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

of the ladies in treaty with a silver knife, he 
took the liberty ol requesting* to examine hers, 
where, to her great confusion, some of the 
articles were found ; but it may be urged in 
extenuation of her fault, that Lord Anson, at 
his visit there, had played a trick or two on 
the family, from whom she was descended. 

We sailed the same night, still keeping close 
to the shore, and passing the Islands of Lobus 
de Mar and Terra, arrived off the river Tum- 
biz, where we anchored and remained three 
days, cut a large quantity of wood on an Island 
in a small creek, a little to the northward of 
the river: we found some foxes here and took 
two. There is a bar crossing the entrance of 
the river Tumbiz, which renders it difficult, 
and at times, rather dangerous for boats to 
cross ; notwithstanding ships can be supplied 
with water which is of very good quality. It 
was on this place a boat belonging to the 
Phcebe was upset, which occasioned the death 
of Lieut. Jago, and the Purser, but whether 
they were drowned or eaten by the Alligators 
is uncertain. Several of these frightful 
creatures were seen next morning basking 
themselves in the sun, and both these gentle- 
men being good swimmers, one may be led to 
conclude they reached the shore only to die a 
more wretched death. This ferocious animal, 



briton's voyage. - 27 

as it is said by naturalists, continues to grow 
while it lives, and those I saw were of different 
sizes, from six to eighteen .feet. One often 
feet long was shot. They are of a dark green 
color, with large and almost impenetrable 
scales, and, although in opposition to the opin- 
ion of many writers who have treated on the 
subject, 1 believe of considerable bravery. 

The town of Tumbiz, at a small distance 
from the mouth of the river, is of inconsider- 
able extent, although of some celebrity in the 
history of Peru, from its having been one of 
the last towns subjected by the Incas, and the 
place where Pizarro and his companions in 
their first expedition landed. 1 In their second 
expedition, -they again visited Tumbiz, and 
formed their first settlement St Michael 2 on 
the river Piura. After Huayna Capac the 
eleventh Inca, had brought this province under 
his subjection, which was effected without 
much opposition, he dedicated a temple to the 
sun, a most stately and magnificent temple, 
the iemains of which I have been informed, 
are still visible. At the distance of a few 
leagues to the north, is the river and town of 
Guayaquil, where terminate the kingdom of 



1 Garcillcso De la Vega, book 9, Chapter 2: 

2 Robertsons history of America, book 6, page 125, 



28 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

Peru ; Guayaquil being in the district and Vice- 
royalty of Qui to. 

We next visited St. Helena, a place of little 
importance, and remarkable only for the high 
point of land, which has every appearance of 
being an Island, until you are within a small 
distance of the shore. On a sandy beach to 
the northward of the point, is a small town, 
whose inhabitants are chiefly natives of the 
country. The houses being nothing but 
frames or skeletons, and having no high land 
behind them, appear rather extraordinary. 
The floor on which the people live, is about 
six or eight feet from the ground, and the lad- 
der by which they ascend, is always drawn up 
at night, otherwise they would run great risk 
of being bit by serpents which infest the place, 
and whose bite is venomous. This reptile is 
very small, and nearly a yard in length, I saw 
but one. We took a few fish here, and like- 
wise procured a few boat-load of water. 

We now steered to the Island of Plata, which 
to our great surprise, we found destitute of 
water, and, although possessed of some wood, 
it was not to begot at but with so much dif- 
ficulty, that we left it and proceeded to the 
Island ofSalango, between which and the Main 
we anchored, where we found both the above 
articles in great abundance, prom the surf 



briton's voyage. 29 

being continual and exceedingly violent, it is 
necessary to land the casks and raft them off 
to the ship. The water is rather muddy, but 
soon settles and is very good. There are only 
two houses here, built similar to those of St. 
Helena, and are occupied by a family of the 
natives of the country. In this neighbourhood 
there are some tigers, and the serpents are of a 
considerable size as well as venomous. 

Having now completed the ships with 
water, we left the coast of America for the 
purpose of examining the group of Islands 
known by the name of the Gallipagos, and on 
the 25th July, arrived at Charles Island, and 
anchored in an harbour sufficiently commodious 
to contain a very considerable force. This Is- 
land is perfectly barren, and excepting the 
prickly peach tree, which grows to an immense 
size, and a few bushes along the beach, there 
is no appearance of the least vegetation. There 
are the craters of several old volcanoes, but I 
did not perceive the trace of any recent erup- 
tion. Guanas we found here in great abund- 
ance, and notwithstanding their disgusting 
appearance, they were eaten by many of the 
sailors, who esteemed them as most delicious 
food. We found also a great many small birds 
resembling, but more diminutive than the wood 
pigeon. They were so exceedingly tame, that 



30 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

many were taken without the least attempt to 
escape, and when a stone or stick was thrown, 
it was seldom they flew away, but remained 
until struck or killed. This Island is often 
visited by great quantities of seals. We found 
but few tortoises and no water. Tarrying here 
one day, we proceeded to Chatham Island, 
which excepting a small isthmus, where the 
volcanoes have not extended their ravages, is 
a perfect body of black lava. Here we were 
fortunate in our search for tortoises, and took 
more than a hundred, among them were 
several weighing upwards of 370 lbs. Amongst 
the grass on the isthmus, we took some land 
tortoise. One of these cieatures greatly ex- 
ceeded the others in size, and as the progress 
this species make in growing, is particularly 
slow, I am led to conclude it to have been of a 
great age. From its having been taken at this 
Island, the sailors whimsically bestowed on it 
the name of Lord Chatham. It soon lost its 
natural shyness, became much petted among 
the crew, and latterly, was in regular attend- 
ance in the galley at the hour of meals, when 
it partook of the ships allowance, and was fed 
by the men either out of their hands or some 
of their utensils, but notwithstanding, every 
care was taken, its life could not be preserved in 
the excessive cold, of a high southern latitude. 



eriton's voyage. 31 

The Kicker rock, stands in the center of this 
anchorage, and has a most extraordinary ap- 
pearance. In our search for water here as at 
Charles Island, we were unsuccessful. 

At James's Island we found a good anchor- 
age, a considerable quantity of wood, and at 
the foot of an exceedingly high and remarkable 
mountain, a small stream of water, near which 
is the remains of the hut of an unfortunate 
Spaniard, who was left there by his compan- 
ions., and where he remained nearly two years. 
Land tortoises are found here in great abund- 
ance, whose meat being very fine, we found it 
a great relief from salt provisions. The num- 
ber of guanas we saw here, can alone be con- 
ceived ; they had regular burrows, and were 
much more plentiful than I have ever seen rab- 
bits in a preserve in this country. They are 
of a light red color, about two to three feet 
long, and when pursued, do not like those at 
Charles Island, take to the water. Among; 
some green bushes near the beach, is the tomb 
of Lieut. Cowen, of the United States Frigate, 
Essex, who fell in a duel with Mr. Gamble of 
that ship. That this unfortunate young man 
was much esteemed by his brother officers, is 
evident from the great respect they paid to his 
memory. The thermometer in the shade, at 
SS° on board, and on shore also in the -hade, 
at 95°. 



32 A NARRATIVE OF T&E 

Albermarle Island, the most extensive of 
this group, is nearly covered by the numerous 
volcanic eruptions, which appear to have re- 
cently taken place. It possesses no fresh water, 
but the numerous plants and shrubs would, to 
a botanist, be a source of infinite gratification. 
Many of those plants, and which are exceed- 
ingly beautiful, grow immediately from solid 
lumps of black lava, not having the least ap- 
pearance of possessing any thing sufficiently 
nutritious, or at all calculated to support a 
shrub in so high a state of vegetation. I re- 
moved one on board, and although a very con- 
siderable quantity of the lava was taken with 
it, it died immediately. It had a leaf re- 
sembling velvet, and when broken, an abund- 
ance of milky juice of a strong astringent 
nature issued. This plant was very odorous. 
There are some small birds here, also lizards 
and grasshoppers, the latter are of great size as 
well as beauty. 

Norborough Island, vies with the others in 
its dark, gloomy, and mountainous appearance. 
Itis covered with volcanoes, and two were burn- 
ing when we passed it. This Island does not 
possess fresh water, or vegetation. There is 
a very strong and continual current or indraft 
towards this group, which I suppose supplies 
the numerous volcanoes, with which they col- 
lectively abound. 



briton's voyage. S3 

Our examination of these Islands occupied 
us ten days, when we again put to sea, and af- 
ter a short voyage arrived at the more pleas- 
ing, as well as interesting, group of the Mar- 
quesas. 



ssn 



34 A NARRATIVE OF THE 



CHAPTER IV. 

We had departed from those gloomy Is- 
lands/ere we perceived it to be the intention of 
Sir Thomas Staines to visit the Marquesas; 
but the course he ordered the ship to be steer- 
ed, soon demonstrated his object, and on the 
14th day, subsequent to our departure from Nar- 
borough, we arrived atNovaheevah, or SirHenry 
Martyn's Island, having run in that period a dis- 
tance exceeding 3,000 miles. At our approach 
to Port Anna Maria, it became almost a calm, 
when we were met by a boat, apparently Euro- 
pean, which proved to have belonged to one of 
the whalers taken by the United States Frigate 
Essex, and now in possession of Wilson, a 
native of England, who having left an English 
merchant ship about ten years before, remained 
there ever since. It was necessary to anchor 
off the entrance for the night, and early next 
morning, availing ourselves of the sea breeze, 
w entered this delighful harbour, when w r e 
anchored in a small bay, which Captain David 
Porter, of the United States Navy, had occu- 
pied, and on an adjacent mountain had thrown 
up some works for his protection, of which, in 



briton's voyage. 35 

the course of this chapter, I shall have to treat 
more largely. 

We were now informed by Wilson, that our 
appearance off the Island, had been the occasion 
of considerable alarm, and that the Natives, 
(dreading it to be the return of Captain Por- 
ter, who, doubtless, would have taken ample 
vengeance for the fate of those of his men, 
whom they had stoned to death, in retaliation 
for the brutal conduct he exemplified towards 
them, during his stay in the Port ;) had deserted 
the Valley, and were seeking safety by flight ; 
but on finding our ship to be of another nation, 
they soon returned, and at our approach, the 
shore was crowded, each waving a branch of 
the palm tree as a signal of friendship. 

As the first boat drew near the shore, about 
thirty of the natives ran into the water to re- 
ceive her, which was done with so much dex- 
terity and strength, that she was carried bodily 
upon the beach, without giving any of the crew 
sufficient time to quit her. This had a much 
prettier effect than I can well describe, and I 
was infinitely more pleased at beholding such 
a demonstration of friendship, than I possibly 
could have been at experiencing it. 

The Captain now waited on the King in 
form, who received him with great kindness and 
made every friendly profer of assistance. His 
Majesty after having asked how many pigs, 



36 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

bread-fruit, and cocoa nuts we wanted, solicit- 
ed to know the number of ladies both ships 
would require, because he was doubtful his 
valley would be deficient, and in which case, he 
would send to a neighbouring kingdom for 
a supply. His politeness was fully appreciat- 
ed, and I believe, there are few Royal Per- 
sonages of the present day who would be 
more accommodating, or give to their friend- 
ship a greater latitude. 

The first ceremony being over, — a friendship 
established, — and the intercouse with the na- 
tives becoming unrestricted, each successive 
daywas productive of something new; but'ere I 
proceed to the relation, it may not be improper 
for the information of those of my readers who 
are not adepts in geography, if I take a brief 
view of the local situation of the Island, which 
is one of the most considerable, as well as fer- 
tile, among the group lying within the Lati- 
tude of 8° and 10° south, and in longitude 
]S8° lo'to 140° 25 'west, and discovered by 
Don Alvera Mendana de Neyra, in the year 
1595, who named them jointly, the Marquesas, 
in compliment to Mendoca Marquis de Canete, 
the then viceroy of Peru, under whose auspices 
he had been sent out on a voyage of discovery. 
Subsequent to this period, they have been often 
visited by ships of different nations, and it has 
been asserted that Ingraham, an American, 



sriton's voyage. 37 

was the first who discovered Novaheevah, and 
from which, I am inclined to suppose, Captain 
Porter's pompous and ridiculous claim to pri- 
ority of discovery is founded : but the Islands 
Ingraham seen, appear to be those mentioned 
by the French Navigator, Le Merchand, and 
which are situated at a small distance to the 
north west of the Marquesas. 

Novaheevah, the signification of which I 
could not ascertain, received from Lieut. Her- 
gest, the name of Sir Henry Marty n's Island, 
and by which it is now generally known. 

This island, as I have already said, is not 
only more extensive than the others, but also 
of greater fertility. It is divided into several 
districts or valiies, each containing from 1.500 
to 2000 people, with an hereditary King at- 
tached to each. These Tribes or Nations are 
frequently at war with each other, but I believe 
seldom come to a general battle, and which 
is as seldom sanguinary ; still the mode they 
pursue, may be productive of greater calamity 
than the loss of a few slain, for they frequently 
go by night into a neighbouring district, 
and destroy the bark from every bread-fruit,* 
or Cocoa-nut tree they meet with, which 

* After the bread-fruit tree has been thus treated, it is 
free years' ere it will again bear fruit. . 



3S A NARRATIVE OP THE 

being their general food, a ravage of this kind is 
certain to involve the unfortunate district in 
want for several subsequent years; insomuch 
that its inhabitants become dependant on the 
adjoining villages for subsistence. In the seve- 
ral kingdoms of the Pytees, Haupaws, and 
Typees, I saw an excceeding number of trees 
which had undergone this barbarous operation, 
and from whence many of the inhabitants had 
not only been obliged to remove, but to solicit 
the aid of their neighbours. 

Port Anna Maria, or the bay of Tuhuouy, 
forms one of the most considerable districts of 
which the natives call themselves Pytees— be- 
yond the mountains are the Haupaws, and those 
inhabiting the Valley in Comptroller's Bay, are 
called Typees, who are said to be the most 
wailike in the Island, as well as being a species 
of the Anthropophagi, but I am yet to learn, 
how they gained this unnatural reputation, 
for when I made an incursion into the interior 
of their country, I could not perceive the least 
trace of cannibility among them, or aught, to 
authorize my drawing so horrible a conclusion. 
The manners and customs of those tribes, resem- 
ble each other in every thing, but, perhaps, 
those of the valley of Tuhuouy are the most ci- 
vilized, as it is a Port where ships occasionally 
touch for the purpose of procuring Sandle 
wood for the market of Canton. 



briton's voyace. 39 

This place is surrounded by a ridge of moun- 
tains of almost inaccessible height, forming the 
boundary of the kingdom, which is divided 
and subdivided into villages or districts, each 
having a chief, tributary to the king, who is at 
all times ready to lead his warriors to battle at 
the sound of the conch. Every kingdom has 
a chief priest, and to each of the divisions a 
subordinate one, who are much respected, and 
ever held in the greatest veneration. 

Their religion, as well as their mode of per- 
forming it, appears to differ but little from the 
description given in the appendix to the Mis- 
sionary voyage to the Society Islands, excepting 
that of offering human sacrifices to their Eatooa 
or God. I could not find that this custom had 
ever been in practice here ; if it had, it must 
have been very ancient, for it did not form any 
part of their numerous traditionary stories. 
The Eatooa appears throughout these Islands, 
to be the superior deity, but they have many 
of inferior note, and amongst them I remarked 
Fatu-aitapoo, and two or three others resem- 
bling in sound those mentioned in the Mis- 
sionary voyage, (page 143) but the one here 
mentioned , alone corresponded exactly. Every 
family have also a deity of their own, taken 
from an illustrious relative whom they suppose 
has from his virtue, or great actions, become 



40 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

an Eatooa. To him they dedicate images cut 
out of wood, and although the figures are un- 
couthly represented, they are very ingenious. 
These are sacred, and principally used for the 
tops of crutches, or stilts, as they are supersti- 
tious enough to suppose, that when they rest on 
these images they will be secure from injury ; 
and if by accident they are unfortunate enough 
to stumble,it is seldom they livelong afterwards; 
for if the Priest cannot satisfactorily appease 
the anger of the Tutelar Eatooa, they fancy 
they labor under his displeasure, and with an 
unequalled resignation and calmness starve 
themselves to death. 

In the performance of all ceremonies, they 
exemplify the greatest devotion, nor do they at 
any time approach a place sacred to the Eatooa 
without the most marked respect. The wo- 
men uncovering their bosoms, the men remov- 
ing their hats. Of the evil demon or Veheen6 
ihee they have but little dread, being firmly 
persuaded that after the soul has taken its de- 
parture from the body, it will enjoy a rank 
among their Eatooas in another world, accord- 
ing as its life has been good or bad in this. 
Nothing can exceed their superstition ; they 
are constantly seeing Atoowas, or Ghosts, and 
in their sleep, even, they fancy the soul leaves 
the body to repose among its kindred spirits. 



briton's voyage. 41 

The morais, or burial places at this place, 
are greatly inferior to what I was led to expect, 
as from the description of several navigators I 
anticipated something exceedingly handsome, 
but they consist merely of a large heap of 
stones, very irregularly piled, having on the 
top a small house for the purpose of receiving 
the remains of the King, his family, or those of 
the principal Chiefs; the sacrifices are also 
made here, and from the place being Tabooed, 
or rendered sacred, the women, who labor un- 
der great restriction, are precluded from going 
to, or even touching it, under the heavy penalty 
of death. Their regret at the loss of a friend 
is demonstrated in various ways, and are borne 
away by the most opposite and sudden gusts of 
passion, and if a woman be weeping over a 
dead child (for they are very affectionate) you 
may expect (as I was informed) her sorrow to 
be turned intojoy, and that she will be laugh- 
ing with a glee equal to her former grief; but 
nothing of this nature came immediately under 
my notice. 

Their places of public assembly, are much 
superior to themoiais, and are generally exten- 
sive enough within to contain 1000, or 1200 
people. This spot is also tabooed, and conse- 
quently the ladies, whose interference in any 
political matter is never allowed, are prohibited 

G 



42 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

visiting it, under the penalty I have before men- 
tioned. The most spacious as well as elegant 
of these, is in the kingdom of the Typees. 

The exchanging names, or becoming a bro- 
ther with a chief, or native, seems to be a 
general custom, and indeed there can be no 
greater advantage to a stranger, for when an 
adoption of this nature takes place, the chief 
considers his Tayo, or brother, equally with 
himself, entitled to what his house, or district 
affords, and his people pay him the same res- 
pect. Patookee, a chief of great celebrity, 
solicited a Tayoship with me, to which I ac- 
ceded, when he placed on my head his own hat 
as a token of friendship. It is of a simple 
structure, made from the leaf of the palm tree, 
but I shall ever hold it in the greatest estima- 
tion. The benefit I derived from my new 
connection was incalculable — he was in con- 
stant attendance, and seldom came without 
offering me presents. From this Tayo there 
is nothing withheld, even the most favorite la- 
dy would be ceded with the greatest compla* 
cency. The reader will, I doubt not, imagine 
where female chastity is so little esteemed, and 
of no recommendation to the sex, there can be 
but a small portion of the affection of a father, 
a husband, or a friend. The wife too, he may 
suppose, is equally callous to every feeling of 



briton's voyage. 43 

sensibility : — but I can assure him, an impres- 
sion of this kind would be very erroneous, for 
I am firmly persuaded, notwithstanding their 
readiness to deliver their wives, or daughters, 
into the embraces of strangers, they possess to 
an eminent degree the finest feelings of friend- 
ship. I have often seen the men fondling and 
hugging their children with as great appear- 
ance of affection, as can well be described, and 
that the women are impressed with the strong- 
est attachment for their immediate Lords, the 
circumstance 1 am about to adduce will be suf- 
ficient to prove : — Lieut. Bennet, of the 
Royal Marines, took for his Tayo a young 
man of an exceedingly interesting and pene- 
trating countenance, in stature manly, and 
whose wife also possessed more than ordinary 
beauty. From the attention shewn him, he 
conceived a desire to visit England, and was, I 
believe, promised permission should be granted 
him. His intention was soon communicated 
to his wife, who an evening or two after, when 
we were walking on the beach, came up to us 
in the most frantic and wild manner, talking 
with unequalled rapidity, but not a word could 
we distinguish but "Vahana Picatanee" or hus- 
band to England. She cried and laughed al» 
ternately, tore her hair — beat her breast*— 
lay down on the ground — danced, sang, and 



44 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

at length in a paroxysm of despair, cut herself 
in several places with a shark's tooth, which 
until then she had concealed, nor could 
we disarm her 'ere she had done herself consi- 
derable injury. She was still frantic, and we 
still ignorant of the cause, and should have re- 
mained so, had not Otaheitean Jack* arrived, 
who informed us, when we assured her, 
her fears were vain, and that her husband 
should not be permitted to go from the Island 
without her leave. This had the desired effect, 
and she soon became as placid and cheerful as 
ever ; nor did she appear to notice the wounds 
she had inflicted. There were several specta- 
tors to this affecting scene, which clearly 
proved that the natives of this remote region, 
although in a perfect state of nature, are nei- 
ther destitute of feelings nor affection. Old 
age is no where more respected or revered than 
here. 

I am decidedly of opinion that the custom 
of having plurality of wives is confined to the 
chiefs alone, and that the people in general are 
constant to one, and in this I am supported by 
the opinion of Crook, the Missionary, who 
says, speaking of the Island of St. Christina, 



* A Native of Otaheite, who had beep taught a lit- 
tle English by the Missionaries. 



45 

(M. V. page 144) "Observing a pregnant wo- 
man I asked her how many children she had? 
She replied three. I wished to know if they 
were by the same man ? she said yes. I ask- 
ed farther if he had any other wife ? she said no. 
Whence L am led to believe that though 
Tenae* has more wives than one, this is not 
usual, and may be the privilege of the chief." 
The continuation of this paragraph, tends 
greatly to strengthen what I have already said, 
relative to their affection, for says he, "They 
seem to be very fond of their children, and 
when I went up to the valley, I saw the men 
often dandling them upon their knees, exactly 
as I have observed an old grandfather with us in 
a country village." 

The Nooaheevahans, like most of those of the 
other Islands, have no regular meals, nor are 
the women employed in any part of the cook- 
ery, except for themselves, and are prohibited 
from eating at all of the hog, notwithstanding 
they are very fond of it, for those who came on 
board ate of it most voraciously. They do not 
eat much at a time, but their meals are fre- 
quent, and their dishes consist chiefly of the 
bread-fruit roasted, fish, which they eat raw, 
Ahee-nuts, a root resembling the yam, beatin- 

* Chief or King in the Island of Christina, by whom 
Crook the Missionary was patronized. 



46 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

to a paste, and roast pork. Poultry they have 
also, but in no great abundance, nor did they 
appear to like its meat. These articles are 
generally served up in calabash, or cocoa-nut 
shells — their knives are made from the outside 
of bamboo, and their forks of the same materi- 
als, but resembling a wooden skewer. These 
instruments are seldom used, but for the first 
separation. It is rarely they employ them- 
selves at work, and excepting a few old men, 
who were making nets, or canoes, I never saw 
any. 

The clothing, or dress of these people is very 
simple, the men having nothing but the ame or 
girdle of cloth round their waist, which is 
passed between their legs and neatly secured 
in front. They have also a hat made from the 
palm tree, the simplicity of which gives an in- 
teresting finish to their manly statures. They 
are excessively fond of ear ornaments, the men 
making theirs from sea shells, or a light wood, 
•which by the application of an earth, becomes 
beautifully white. The women prefer flowers, 
and which at all seasons are to be found. 
Whales teeth, are held in so much estimation 
that a good one is considered equal to the 
greatest property ; they are generally in the 
possession of the Chiefs, who wear them sus- 
pended round their neck. Their other species 



briton's voyage. 47 

of dress consists of a kind of Coronet, ingeni- 
ously made from a light wood, on which is fas- 
tened, by means of the rosin from the bread- 
fruit tree, small red berries; a great quantity 
of feathers give the finish. The ruff worn 
round the neck, is made of the same materials, 
Added to these are large bunches of human 
hair, tied round the ancles, wrist, or neck, and 
always worn in battle, though seldom other- 
wise. Tattooing is evidently considered 
among them a species of dress, a man without 
it being held in the greatest contempt. The 
women are not exposed as much as the men, 
and their tattooing is very inconsiderable. 
Their dress consists of a piece of cloth round 
their waists, answering to a short petticoat, 
and a mantle, which being tied on the left 
shoulder, and crossing the bosom, rests on the 
right hip, and hangs negligently as low as the 
knee, or calf of the leg, as it may accord with 
the taste of the lady. Their hair is generally 
black, but worn in different ways, some long, 
and turned up — others short. They are ali 
fond of adorning their persons with flowers, 
and many of the wreaths are formed with such 
elegant simplicity, that does not contribute a 
little to their personal appearance, which is at 
all times particularly interesting; the beauty 
of their features being only equalled by the 
symmetry of their figures. They are of a 



48 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

bright copper colour, and in the cheeks of 
those who were requested to refrain from a- 
nointing themselves with oil, and the roots of 
trees, the crimson die was \ery conspicuous. 
In their early visits to the ship, they swam off, 
and as their clothes are not calculated to stand 
the water, they left them on the beach ; but 
they never neglected taking with them a few 
leaves to tie round their waists. In this state 
of nature would they daily exhibit themselves, 
and too without suspecting, or being in the 
least degree conscious they were offering the 
most trivial offence to modesty. " Our first 
visitors," say the Missionary Voyages, "came 
off early from the shore ; they were seven 
beautiful young women, swimming quite nak- 
ed, except a few leaves round their middle ; 
they kept playing round the ship for three 
hours, calling Waheine, until several of the 
men came on board ; one of whom being the 
Chief of the Island, requested that his sister 
might be taken on board, which was complied 
with: she was of a fair complexion, inclining 
to a healthy yellow, with a tint of red on her 
cheek, was rather stout, but possessing such 
symmetry of features, as did all her compani- 
ons, that as models of Statuary and Painture 
their equal can seldom be found. Our 
Otaheitean girl who was tolerably fair, and had 
a comely person, was, notwithstanding, greatly. 



briton's voyage. 49 

eclipsed by these women, and I believe felt her 
inferiority in no small degree however, she 
was superior in the amiableness of her manners 
and possessed more of the softness and tender 
feeling of the sex : she was ashamed to see a 
woman upon the deck quite naked, and sup- 
plied her with a complete dress of newOtahei- 
tean cloth, which set her off to great advan- 
tage, and encouraged those in the water, 
whose numbers were greatly increased, to im- 
portune for admission ; and out of pity to 
them, as we saw they would not return, we 
took them on board, but they were in a mea- 
sure disappointed, for they could not succeed so 
well as the first in getting clothed ; nor did the 
mischievous goats even suffer them to keep 
their green leaves, but as they turned to avoid 
them they were attacked on each side alter- 
nately, and completely stripped naked. " 

I must confess, when I read this paragraph, 
notwithstanding the respectibility of the au- 
thority, 1 was rather inclined to be incredu- 
lous, but 'ere we had been at anchor many 
hours, a similar circumstance took place, and 
afterwards several others, and to which i was 
an eye witness. 

Tattooing, orPatekee, is considered a great 
mark of distinction, the pain being of infinite 
accuteness, it shews what they are capable of 

H 



50 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

undergoing. There are many on whom it has 
been performed so often, that not a spot of their 
natural colour is seen to remain. Some are 
most fantastically done, although with great 
taste, and if it be possible, straight lines are 
always avoided. Those who are marked only 
sufficient to shew 'the class they belong to r 
are of the inferior order, or toutous, and have, 
perhaps, a fish, a bird, or something of little 
consequence, represented on one side of the 
face. The women, as I have before observed, 
are so little marked in this way that it seldom 
exceeds a hand, or a few fingers. The lips- of 
many are streaked, and this is principally seen 
with those who are married, or have children, 
but it is not as many suppose a general rule 
among the married. The men are tall, well 
formed, muscular, and manly ; possessing a 
great portion of vivacity and penetration ; in- 
somuch that for a people of whose language I 
was ignorant, 1 had less pains in making them 
understand me than any I ever met with. They 
took notice of every thing they saw, and I be- 
lieve no one came on board who did not mea- 
sure the length of the ship, and count the 
nnmber of guns, masts, decks, &c. 

Their amusements are principally in dancing, 
swimming, and wrestling; throwing their ja- 
velins, and slinging stones, in the whole of 



eriton's voyage. ,51 

which they are great proficients. Their arms 
consist of clubs, of which there are two kinds, 
the carved, and the plain, both made from a 
wood, though not hard when first cut, be- 
comes so by being buried in the mud which 
serves as a strong die. Spears of 10 feet long, 
made from the same wood, or from the cocoa- 
nut tree, and slings made from grass. Bows 
and arrows have not yet been introduced 
among them. The stone from the sling is 
thrown a great distance, and with considerable 
accuracy. 

The person of the king being tabooed, 
whatever place or ground he touches becomes 
sacred and to obviate the inconveniency to which 
his people would otherwise be subjected, he is 
at all times carried on a man's back, his conch, 
or horn, slung about his neck, and a small dia- 
dem, made of leaves, on his head. Several of 
thepricipal chiefs are in constant attendance, 
as well as a retinue of domestics. In his pa- 
lace he has a canopy of state, under which he 
sits, or lies — there is great simplicity in its ap- 
pearance. The palace is an open hut, situated 
near the sea-side, and has nothing, except its 
size, to distinguish it from any of the others. 
One of the rooms was curiously decorated 
with the skeleton heads of pigs, exceedingly 
clean, and well preserved. These animals, to 



62 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

a great number, had been sacrificed at the 
death of the king's mother, and whose heads 
were fixed round this apartment, by way of 
keeping heralive in his memory ; but however 
dear she might have been to him, he did not 
hesitate to barter a couple of the best for an old 
razor. 

Their candles are made by sticking a great 
number of the kernels of nuts on a long slip of 
bamboo, and from their oily nature, they are 
easily lit, burn very regular, and produce an 
exceedingly good light. There is a very small 
portion of smoke, and when the light is extin- 
guished, the smell though rather powerful, is by 
no means disagreeable. 

The quadrupeds consist only in pigs, and 
rats, the latter are exceedingly large, and in 
very great numbers, the pigs run wild, and are 
of a fine sort. I brought one of them to Eng- 
land with me, which being with young at the 
time of landing, I have now in my possession. 
the species entire. The natives on seeing our 
cow, were much surprised, and called it a 
horned pig, not having seen any of the species 
before, or having the least idea what else it 
could be. 

The natives of this place do not bleed their 
pigs, but strangle them with a rope, and after 
haying taken out the entrails, and binding 



briton's voyage. 53 

the body up with large leaves, it is laid on a 
heap of hot stones, which burns off the hair, 
and dresses the body ; and had the one so 
prepared purposely for us by the Typees, in 
Comptrollers bay, been a little more dressed, 
1 am persuaded no dish could have exceeded 
it: it was full of the richest gravy and was 
in every way calculated foi the exquisite pa- 
late of an alderman, who I am inclined to be- 
lieve, would have taken it in preference, even 
to the callipee, or callepash, of the most delici- 
ous tortoise. 

The cava, or spirits, drank here, possess 
very inebriating qualities, and bring on almost 
an immediate dizziness. It is produced from 
the leaves, and roots of a plant, which being 
chewed by women of the lower order, and spit 
into calabashes, or receivers, and mixed with 
the milk, from the cocoa-nut, is left to ferment ; 
after which it is strained off, when it soon be- 
comes fit for use. The kings, and a few chiefs, 
can alone afford to indulge themselves in this 
delicious nectar, and to those it produces a 
kind of dry scrofula in the skin, with soreness 
in the eyes, which was very conspicuous in 
the old king, for, notwithstanding he had un- 
dergone the ordeal of Tattooing to an immense 
degree, his skin was covered with such a dry 



54 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

white scale, that gave him, instead of a black, 
the appearance of being a light grey colour. 

These people are seldom visited by sickness, 
which may in some measure be attributed to 
the simplicity of their diet, and their great at- 
tention to cleanliness. It is considered neces- 
sary with them to bathe at least three times a 
day, which greatly diminishes that sour offensive 
exhalation, proceding from those people of a 
similar climate, who are less attentive to their 
persons. Incase of accidents, there are people 
who profess the art of surgery, and in setting 
fractures they are expert, aud successful. I 
saw but one operation of this nature, which 
was on a broken thigh — the swelling being re- 
duced, the part fractured was bound carefully 
round with large leaves, when several splints, 
or smooth pieces of bamboo, were applied, 
which being bound with great caution, and 
the limb confined in one position, the opera- 
tion was finished. One of the faculty was so- 
licitous to be supplied with lancets, but 1 
could not ascertain from Wilson, ifphlebotomy 
had ever been practised, or if the old man un- 
derstood the use of these instruments. How- 
ever, he was furnished with enough to open all 
the veins in the Island. 

Sir Thomas Staines taking great interest in 



briton's voyage. 35 

the voyage, and wishing to know beyond a 
vague conjecture, their mode of righting, soli- 
cited the old king to cause a sham fight to be 
performed upon the plain, which he acceded 
to, and the old warrior, took great pleasure in 
going through all the various evolutions. For 
the club, a tolerably sized stick, was substi- 
tuted — for the spear, a piece of bamboo, and 
the slingers, instead of stone, threw the small 
bread-fruit. Thus armed, about 300 of the 
most experienced went forth to the plain. 
The king, for the first time, was carried on a 
superb litter, which we had made for him on 
board. He gave direction to the chiefs, for the 
formation of both armies, which were drawn 
up in the following manner. About thirty- 
principal warriors, with clubs, formed the first 
line — the second was composed of spearmen, 
and the slingers on the flanks. The battle 
commenced by a single combat between two 
chiefs, who displayed great powers, both in 
agility, and skill, and were struggling manful- 
ly when the signal was given to advance. A 
terrific and hideous shout followed. The 
slingers now began, but were obliged to retire 
on coming within the reach of the spears. The 
advance was rapid, and as the parties closed, 
so did the confusion increase. Club came in 
contact with club, and spear with spear,— the 



36 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

slingers stood aloof. The conch was at length 
sounded, when each party separated, the slin- 
gers, on either side, filing into the rear of their 
respective flanks to seen re their retreat. They 
did not cease throwing stones until they were 
rendered of no effect. Both parties again 
drew up in their original order, and lested on 
their arms. The distance, as well as accurac y 
with which they throw a stone is almost incre- 
dible — the spearmen are also very expert. 
The countenances of many by being hit by 
shot from the slings, became quite ferocious — 
many were knocked down, but none received 
injury, and thus ended the representation of a 
battle, which must have been productive of 
great pleasure to every beholder. 

The principal trees are bread-fruit and cocoa- 
nut, as from their produce the natives derive 
their subsistence, but there are various others, 
which together with a variety of plants and 
flowers, would afford the botanist an extensive 
field for speculation, and I regret to say I had 
no knowledge in so pleasing, as well as useful 
a science, or I certainly should have turned it 
to advantage. There are several fine streams 
of water, and ships may at all seasons be sup- 
plied without difficulty. There are also seve- 
ral mineral springs, but the qualities they pos- 
sess I was wholly inadequate to ascertain. 



briton's voyage. 57 

The language spoken here, is by no means 
harsh, and principally formed from vowels, but 
1 eould not learn from Wilson, who is most 
egregiously ignorant, if like most others, it 
had any particular form, or government, or 
what it was, nor could I make myself suffici- 
ently understood among the natives to ascer- 
tain it from them, but what I could collect, I 
shall here introduce, and I trust it will be not 
unacceptable. Their manner of counting is 
rather irregular, as they only count to twenty, 
and then the number of twenties, as will be 
seen by the following tables, to which I shall 
add, all the words, and expressions, we could 
gather during our stay, and which we found 
of great use. 



A table of numerals used at the Island of No- 
vaheevah Marquesas. 

Atachkee, One Ahono, Six 

Ahowa, Two Aheeto, Seven 

Atoo, Three Avaho, Eight 

Aha, Four Aheva, Nine 

Ahema, Five Unahoo, Ten 

It will be necessary to observe, that the 
Eleventh number is formed by the addition of 

i 



5S 



A NARRATIVE OF THE 



"Om" to the first and the Twelfth by the 
same addition to the second, and so on to 
Twenty when they stop : — as 



Omatachkee, Eleven 
Omahowa, Twelve 
Omatoo, Thirteen 
Omaha, Fourteen 
Omahema, Fifteen 



Omahono, Sixteen 
Omaheeto, Seventeen 
Omavaho, Eighteen 
Omaheeva, Nineteen 
Omnahoo, Twenty 



lib count a greater number than Twenty, 
they would say for the first " Atachkee Om- 
nahoo" and commence afresh with the first 
number, and " Ahowa Omnahoo" would be 
the second twenty, or forty, and so on : but 
they are by no means expert in any kind of 
calculation. 

The following phrases we found of conside- 
rable use. 



English, 

How do you do? 
Very well. 
Give me something 
to eat. 

to drink. 
I will give you. 
Come here. 
I am coming. 
I do not understand. 



Marquesean. 

Caovakooe. 

Nue nue moee tackey. 

Toko mi te kiee. 

Toko mi te maaha Inee. 
Toil he toko atoo. 
Fee mi. 
Ana aoe* 
Coree aoyocd. 



BRITON S VOYAGE. 



59 



What do you say ? 

What do you want ? 

Do you like me ? 

Yes. 

Then give me a kiss ? 

By and bye. 

Do not make a noise. 

It is not me. 

You lie. 

Will you go on board? 

No. 

Give me a spear. 

The day after to-mor- 
row.. 

My love. 

Go away. 

Kiss me. 

Be off. 

Go to sleep. 

You kill, or hurt me. 

I will knock your 
brains out. 

Give me some bread. 

Give me some water. 

I am dying ofhunger. 

The barbarous Porter 
killed the Typees. 



Ay aha. 

Eno waha ? 

A tee me tackey zvowney. 

Ihee. 

Pee me tee toee. 

Apo. 

Too weetoo wee* 

Coree aoee. 

Te ~Ja va. 

A moce ict ozva tiee ? 

Coree. 

Toko m e p ackahoo . 

Oheyohee-ekiee. 

Vihence now, 

Fetee. 

Ho kee my day sho, 

Ta ha too. 

A moce. 

Me mate.! me mate ! 

Tororo. (an expres* 
slon of great anger) 

Ptj my ti ti potato. 

Pif my viee. 

Me mate deowney. 

Teekecno Porter mate 
mateTypee. (a gen* 
eral expression. 



60 



A NARRATIVE OF THE 



A list of words we collected during our stay 
at Port Anna Maria. 



A 
Axe, Tokee 
Arms, Ema 

B 

Britain, (Great) Pic- 

iatane. 
Bad, Tekeeno 
Bird, Manoo 
Boat, Waca 
Ball, Keeva 
Belly, Apoive 
Bread, Potato 



Club, Acaootoowah 
Cocoa-nut, Iahee 
Cloth, Cahoo 
Cloth girdle, Amee 
Carved club, Hoohoo 

D 

Dog, Patoo 
Devil, Vihenee ihee 

E 

Eyes, Kecco mata 
England, Picatance 



F 

Face, Mata 

Fish, Eca 

Fish, (large) Eca nue 

Fire, ha-hee 

File, Cookhee 

Foul, mozva 

Fish-hook, Pekee 

G 

God Eatooa 
Ghost, Atoowa 
Good, Mocc tackee 

H 

Hunger, Owneg 
Hut, Afiee 
Hair, JVohoo 

K 

Kill, Mate 

L 

Legs, Etee mie 

Large, Nue nue 
Light, Hama 
Louse, Hootoo 

M 

Many, Attee 



briton's voyage. 



61 



Man, Vaharia 
More, To tackeij 
Musket, Poohee 

N 
No, Coree 
Nothing, Ahohwee 

P 

Powder, Hoeecoch 
Paint, (red) Anamor 
Pig, Powaca 

R 

Red cloth, Cahoo a- 

namor 
Rat, Keckoo 
Rain, Owa 



Spirits, Viee kava 
Swim, Cowte tiee 
Stone, Caya 
Spear, Pakaao 
Sling, Maca 



Teeth, Na yeu 
To-morrow, Ohhe- 

eohee 
Tat tooi ng, Patikee 
Toutou, Servant 
Tayo, Brother 



Water, Viee 
Wind, Matanee 
Woman, Waheene 



Small, Etee 
Something, Mayahah 
Ship, Waca nue 



Yes, Ihee 



The marvellous stories related by the Ame- 
rican Officers, who had been taken in the Es- 
sex, and who were at Valparaiso, when we ar- 
rived there, relative to the ferociousness of the 
people, inhabiting the interior of this Island, 
had greatly excited my curiosity, and 'ere we 
reached Port Anna Maria, I had made up my 



62 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

mind to ascertain beyond a doubt, whether the 
terrific description given of them was correct ; 
and to accomplish this point, a party of several 
officers was made, and every arrangement ne- 
cessary forcrossing the mountains entered in- 
to : however, when the period came, from 
causes which I cannot explain, we were reduc- 
ed from the number of a dozen to only three ; 
namely Lieut. J. Morgan, commanding the 
Marines of the Tagus, Mr. Blackmore, Mid- 
shipman of the Briton, and myself. To these 
gentlemen I shall ever feel myself obliged ; 
for had they forsaken me also, I should not 
have relinquished the journey, but have gone 
alone, and their company and observations 
were throughout the day, both agreeable, and 
interesting. It was soon after day-light when 
we set out, accompanied by my Tayo Patoo- 
kee, as a guide, and Otaheitan Jack as inter- 
preter. 

In the two preceding days to our journey, a 
considerable quantity of rain had fallen, and the 
road which bore the appearance of being always 
bad, was now become almost impassible, inso- 
much, that each step we ascended, the difficul- 
ty increased, and in many places, and for seve- 
ral yards together, the mountain was so steep, 
that had it not been for the roots of trees, 
forming themselves into steps, any attempt to- 



briton's voyage. 63 

cross by this route would have been vain. — 
About nine o'clock we reached the summit, 
where we tarried awhile, not only to take some 
refreshment, but to gaze on the various beau- 
ties of nature as they presented themselves. 
It was impossible to turn the eye, where it was 
not met by the most romantic scenery. 

We had now full three miles farther to walk, 
before we could reach the country of the re- 
puted Cannibals, and as the road did not bear 
a very favorable appearance, we hastened our 
departure from the spot, andproceded on our 
journey — we had not gone far before we were 
met by some natives, inhabiting the small, 
though comparatively level district, through 
which we were passing, who brought us cocoa 
nuts, and demonstrated their joy, and friend- 
ship, by a number of strange actions, which 
pleased the more because it augured a favora- 
ble reception from the Typees. This Country 
is of a deep rich soil, and capable of the great- 
est improvement. The cocoa-nut, and bread- 
fruit trees, are every where conspicuous. — 
There are also some sandle trees found here. 

It was nearly noon before we completed our 
journey, (about 10 miles from the port) when 
we were received, and treated with great kind- 
ness by those terrific people, whom Captain 
Porter speaks of as having conquered and ren- 



64 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

dered tributary to the American flag. The 
whole seemed pleased, and their satisfaction at 
seeing us was expressed in various ways, some 
danced, others sang, knelt down, embraced us, 
with many other laughable actions, which 
would be impossible for me to describe. They 
anticipated our wishes in every thing. The 
cocoa-nut for our refreshment was presented 
us, as well as clubs, spears, slings, &c. &c. as 
pledges of their regard, and which they caused 
one of their people to carry even to the ship. 
They examined every thing we had with us, 
and were greatly astonished at the whiteness 
of our skin ; several of them opened the bosom 
of my shirt, the sleeves of my coat, the bot- 
toms of my trowsers, and one was even so in- 
credulous as to wash my hand to ascertain if 
it was not painted. At this time, we were in 
the place of assembly, surrounded by more than 
five hundred of them, and I must confess I did 
not like so strict an examination, which was 
however put a stop to by my friend Morgan, 
who with Mr. Blackmore, was undergoing a 
similar process. At his discharging a pistol 
in the air, the whole assembly fell prostrate, 
and in which attitude they remained a consi- 
derable time, or until they thought the shot 
had reached its destination. When they were 
about to rise, a second was fired, which was 



briton's voyage. 65 

productive of the same effect. This scene was 
so truly ludicrous, that to have withheld from 
laughing would have been morally impossible. 
When the)' had recovered, at their request, 
the pistols were several times discharged 
but during the rest of the day ; every one 
observed the most accommodating distance. I 
have not the most trivial thought of their 
having been actuated by aught but curio- 
sity, for had they entertained a hostile thought, 
our being armed with pistols would not have 
intimidated them ; we were so few in number, 
that one volley of stones, from their slingers, 
would have given them quiet possession of our 
bodies. On this occasion I received great 
assistance from my Tayo Patookee, as well as 
on every other, during the whole period of our 
stay in the Island. 

The Morais of this place, like those of Tu- 
huony, are by no means handsome, but the 
square of public assembly is much superior, 
and sufficiently spacious to contain 1200 peo- 
ple ! it is also Well built. The manners and 
cuMto'ms of this tribe, appear in every respect 
the Same as those at the Port, or Tuhubny. 
The land is ve'ry luxuriant, but nothing is pro- 
pagated ; save the few trees from whose fruits 
they subsist, and which almost grow sponta- 
neous. There is not any sugar cane, though 

K 



66 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

it would flourish throughout the Island. In 
the mountains I saw several small birds of a 
beauteous plumage, but they are not plenty. 

It was here these poor, but friendly people, 
complained in the most bitter terms of the bar- 
barity they had experienced from Captain Por- 
ter, and pointed out the spot where he came 
with a devastating and ruthless hand, and 
not content with burning their villages, and 
destroying their trees, shot cold bloodedly, four- 
teen of their defenceless brethren. In speak- 
ing of him their countenances became quite 
ferocious, and " Te keeno Porter mat6, mate, 
Typee," or the " wicked and brutal Porter mur- 
dered the Typees" resounded throughout the 
circle. Their joy at hearing he was taken a 
prisoner, was excessive, and expressed by the 
most hideous grimaces. One of them, to ex- 
plain more fully to the rest that he was a priso- 
ner, tied his legs with his sling, and the plea- 
sure this diffused, was not only conspicuous in 
every face, but proved that this gentleman's 
conduct had by no means kept pace with the 
dignity of a civilized nation, nor reflected ho- 
nour on America ; and that in the account gi- 
ven of him at Port Anna Maria, there had been 
no exaggeration. 

I strove with assiduity to ascertain if he 



briton's voyage. 67 

really had not some cause which might be ad- 
duced in extenuation, but no clue could I find 
to any thing, having a tendency to qualify his 
conduct. Cocoa-nuts they brought him in 
great abundance, as well as the greater part 
of their pigs. He demanded more, to which 
they found it impossible to accede, without 
great injury being done to their breeding 
stock : but this they were obliged to do to 
prevent the farther effusion of blood. This 
point accomplished, Captain Porter returns in 
triumph to the port, laden with his trophies 
and booty, where he is hailed the great, the 
magnanimous conqueror ! ! * 

The reader will, I am satisfied, feel great in- 
dignation at conduct so repugnant to human 
nature, and in opposition to civilization; but 
more particularly so when he finds that the 



* After the return of Captain Porter from this horrible 
slaughter, which had terminated in a manner so disgrace- 
ful to the arms of America, he caused a throne to be erect- 
ed in his cabin, on which he sat to receive the homage of 
those people whom he had rendered tributary to the Ameri- 
can flag. On which occasion he styled himself king. 
This I had from Wilson, our interpreter, who was him- 
self present at this bombastical coronation, which would be 
ridiculous under any circumstances, but more particularly 
so in a subject of a Republican Government. 



6S A NARRATIVE OF THE 

people against whom this ruthless sham king* 
carried war, with all its horrors, are in his own 
declaration to the world, declared to be de- 
fenceless. 

The day was far advanced, and neither of us 
being desirous to spend the night in so remote a 
place, we turned our thoughts upon re-crossing 
the mountains, which we found infinitely 
more tedious than in the ascent. A great con- 
course accompanied us to the summit, when 
we parted, and I must confess, I returned on 
on board not less delighted with my journey, 
than satisfied that the tales I had before heard 
relative to the Typees, had not the smallest 
claim to veracity. 

I shall now give a brief sketch of what pass- 
ed atTuhuony during the period of the Essex's 
stay there, as well as the ultimate fate of the 
prizes she took with her, but before I proceed 
farther, I will lay before the reader a couple of 
paragraphs from a written document which 
Captain Porter caused to be buried under the 



* This is the man who caused a British subject (who 
wa> on bpard his ship, and would not enter and serve 
against his country in war) to be stripped naked, tarred, 
feathered, and sent on shore in Bog tow 1 U He is also 
the person who has been eulogized By Mr.Xobbet ! 



briton's voyage. 69 

flag staff, and which was dug for and found in 
a bottle by our men. It contained also one sil- 
ver and two copper coins of the United States. 
The paper ran thus: — 

CAPTAIN PORTER's DECLARATION. 

"It is hereby made known to the world, that 
I David Porter, a Captain in the Navy of the 
United States of America, and now in com- 
mand of the United States Frigate Essex, have 
on the part of the said United States, taken 
possession of the Island called by the natives 
Nooaheevah, generally known by the name of 
Sir Henry Martyn's Island, but now called 
Maddison's Islam! ; that by the request and 
assistance of the Friendly tribes residing in 
the valley ofTuhuony, as well as the tribes re- 
siding in the Mountains, whom I have con- 
quered and rendered tributary to our flag, I 
have caused the village of Maddison to be 
built, consisting of six convenient houses, a 
rope walk, bakery, and other appurtenances ; 
and for the protection of the same, I have con- 
structed a fort calculated to mount sixteen 
guns, whereon I have mounted four, and have 
called the same Fort Maddison. 

"Presents, consisting of the produce of the 
Island to a great amount have been brought 
in by every tribe in tlie Island, not excepting 



70 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

the most remote. " Here he goes on to enu- 
merate the tribes, after which he says, "Our 
right to this Island being founded on priority 
of discovery, conquest, and possession, cannot 
be disputed ; but the natives to secure them- 
selves that friendly protection which their de- 
fenceless situation so much required, ha\e re- 
quested to be admitted into the great American 
Family ; whose pure republican policy ap- 
proaches so near their own, and, in order to 
encourage those views to their own interest 
and happiness, as well as to render secure our 
claim to an Island, valuable on so many consi- 
derations, I have taken upon myself to promise 
them they shall be so adopted ; that our chief 
shall be their chief, and they having given me 
assurances that such of their brethren, as may- 
hereafter visit them from the United States, 
shall enjoy a welcome and hospitable reception 
among them, and be furnished with whatever 
refreshments and supplies the Island may af- 
ford ; that they will protect them against their 
enemies, and as far as lays in their power will 
prevent the subjects of Great Britain (know- 
ing them to be such) from coming among 
them until peace shall take place between the 
two nations. " 

The remainder of this document is quite 
uninteresting, but it was signed by Captain 



briton's voyage. J/l 

Porter, and the whole of the officers belong- 
ing to the Essex. 

From this document it appears, that this 
royal personage on his arrival, thought it ex- 
pedient to take possession of an eminence, and 
on it to erect a battery for the protection of the 
people, who were at work in the plain below. 
Town Maddison too, was constructed, as well 
as a wall, not mentioned in any part of his de- 
claration, inclosing his camp, which now stands 
as a lasting monument of his barbarity. The 
fort was demolished, and Town Maddison 
burnt immediately after his departure from the 
Island, and this wall, notwithstanding his si- 
lence on the subject in his declaration to the 
world, having some claim to attention, must 
not be left unnoticed. It is about 5 feet high, 
built of stone, and incloses an oblong of nearly 
600 yards of ground, and was constructed by 
the English prisoners, who were obliged to 
work, either at building, or carrying stone, 
during the whole period of its completion, in 
the heat of the day, and disgracefully loaded 
with irons. But to explain this more fully, it 
will be necessary for me to use the words of 
Mr. Watson, a Captain of one of the Whalers, 
who, when he was shewing me these instru- 
ments of tyranny, expressed himself in the fol- 
lowing manner: — "Yes, Sir, in these irons I 



72 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

have carried many a load of stone, and if you 
ever go to Port Anna Maria, you will probably 
see a wall which I participated in building. 
We had men to attend us with whips, nor 
were we allowed to carry this shot under our 
arm, but made to drag it after us. I will ne- 
ver part with them while I live, and when I get 
home, I will have them fixed in a case, for the 
gratification of those who may wish to see 
them." This is as near the relation as I could 
recollect, when I returned on board to give it a 
place in my journal. He related several other 
cruel hardships which he had been subjected 
to, but as I think a sufficient sample has been 
given of this self-created Monarch's humanity, 
I proceed with my narrative. 
' It here, perhaps, may not be improper to 
pay that tribute to the character of Captain 
Lownes (the then first Lieut, of the Essex) 
which he seems so justly entitled to. — 
Throughout the whole, he appears to have been 
a generous fellow, and as much as laid in his 
power to have alleviated the distresses of the 
prisoners. They spoke of him in very high 
terms. 

The Essex sailed from Nooaheevah, leaving 
their prizes in charge of Lieut. Gamble, of the 
marines, who has been pointed out to me as a 
more cruel, and merciless tyrant than even His 










**& «*&*< ar& 'X%&^cJ0>z£a'i*v/L' ■ 



BRITON S VOYAGE. 78 

Majesty the Captain himself. This Gentle- 
man remained in the port some time subse- 
quent to the departure of the Essex, but his 
conduct being the occasion of several deser- 
tions, and thereby being weakened, he hasten- 
ed his departure. He was preparing the 
Greenwich for his reception, and had moved 
the prisoners on board the ship he lived in : 
these embraced the earliest opportunity of ris- 
ing, and Mr. Gamble wa? seized, put into 
irons, and afterwards flogged with six dozen 
on the back, in retaliation for the number of 
lashes he had wantonly bestowed on them. 
The English, with a few Americans who had 
joined them, put immediately to sea, taking 
Mr. Gamble with them, and when nearly out 
of sight of land, they put him into a boat with 
only a broken oar, and bid him get back if he 
could— he was also shot at, and wounded in 
the heel : — however, he succeeded in regaining 
the Island, when he found his situation very 
alarming, his crew by desertion being greatly 
reduced, and not a native in his favor. He 
therefore sent an armed boat to the shore, to 
bring off what little was there remaining, and 

also to plunder the harbour and Wilson, who had 
refused to take a part against the natives ; but 
fortune still in opposition to his views, whilst 
they were employed at this amiable work, the 

L 



74 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

boat was thrown on the beach by the surf, 
and the men, anxious to get her again afloat, 
unthinkingly left their arms, when a party of 
natives who were in ambush, rushed in upon 
them, and in an instant Mr. Feltus, amid* 
shipman, and two men, were laid dead on the 
beach : the rest succeeded in swimming off to 
the ship, but not without carrying with them 
some severe bruises which they had received 
from the stones. Mr. Gamble's case now be- 
came extremely serious, and dreading an at- 
tack from the shore, he set fire to the Green- 
wich, cut his own cables, and put to sea, and 
bending his course towards Owhyhee, he arriv- 
ed there just in time to be taken possession of 
by His Majesty's sloop Cherub, who brought 
him in safety to Valparaiso. Thermometer 
on board 84°, on shore 100° to 105°. 

By the consent of all the tribes assembled, 
excepting the Typees, (who declared they 
would make no concession, or acknowledge- 
ment, to any power) the Island was taken 
possession of in the name of his Britannic Ma- 
jesty. A royal salute was fired from the Bri- 
ton and Tagus, and the Union displayed on a 
flagstaff at the Palace Royal. This was a 
parting ceremony, and early next morning we 
weighed anchor, and proceeded to the Island 
of Christiana, where we arrived on the 31st. 



briton's voyage. 73 

v next day) and anchored in a small bay to the 
eastward of Resolution bay. Here we were 
soon visited by some of the natives., whose 
manners and customs we found similar to 
those of Novaheevah, excepting a great pro- 
pensity to thieving, £tnd a trifling difference in 
some of their words. The scenery of this 
place like that of the other Islands has an ex- 
ceedingly wild and romantic appearance.- — 
The 'mountain's high, steep, and covered with 
foliage of most luxuriant nature. The land is 
very rich, and, like Novaheevah, capable of 
every improvement. 

Afe this Island* Crook* one of the missionary v 
Gentlemen, was left by Captain Wilson, but t 
believe he did not remain long enough to work 
any particular good among the natives. His 
house was in a retired spot, near the bank of a 
river, about a mile from the shore. It bore nO 
trace of ever having been the residence of 3 
European. He was much esteemed. 

The water here is good, and ships may be 
supplied with ease, though not with great ex- 
pedition. It was here one of Mr. Gamble's 
men, (Peter Snack,) joined us, who complained 
greatly of that gentleman's conduct, which he 
declared was the sole and onl> cause of his de- 
sertion. I do not imagine he entered on 
board the Briton with a view of serving 



76 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

against his country, but merely to ensure a 
passage back, his conduct during his stay on 
board was exemplary. This man corroborated 
the story of Captain Porter's coronation. 

The natives of this Island were labouring 
under the influence of an intermittent fever and 
ague, for which was administered both as a re- 
medy and antidote, the juice of the leaves of 
certain trees and berries, and which was at- 
tended with great success. Boyce, a boy 14 
years old, deserted here. 

Our curiosity being now pretty well satiat- 
ed, for we had seen every thing worthy of no- 
tice, on the morning of the 2d September we 
took our final departure from these friendly 
people, and as this chapter has been rather 
long, 1 shall leave the reader to rest awhile, 
and the interesting incident which transpired 
on our voyage back to the Continent, he will 
find related in the ensuing one. 



briton's voyage. 77 



CHAPTER V. 



Having sailed from the Marquesas, it will 
be necessary for me to take a cursory view of 
Mr. Bligh's voyage to Otaheite, in 1788, 
about which period he was appointed to the 
command of the Bounty, with a Mr. Christian 
as his Chief Mate, or First Lieutenant, for the 
purpose of conveying the bread-fruit tree to 
the West Indies. The progress he made in his 
undertaking — his sailing from Otaheite — the 
subsequent mutiny — the entire annihilation of 
the object of his voyage, and the miraculous re- 
turn to the coast of Timor, in an open boat, are 
circumstances so well known, and have been so 
feelingly described, thatat the verynameofthe 
Bounty, they must recur with such strength 
to any reflective mind, that it will be needless 
for me to touch on the conduct of the unfor- 
tunate young man, who led that much to be 
lamented conspiracy, or that of the experienc- 
ed Navigator, who appears to have been the 
chief object of their hatred, and I am afraid 
the sole cause of the unjustifiable conduct used 
towards him. 



78 X NARRATIVE OF THE 

For many years, the ultimate fate of Chris- 
tian was uncertain, and the prevailing opinion 
was, that after he had left and destroyed the 
Bounty, he returned to the coast of S. Ame- 
rica, and entered into the Spanish service ; nay, 
it has even been asserted, he had been recog- 
nized in that situation, and after the account 
given of him by May hew Folgier,* there were 
many who retained the same opinion ; but the 
matter is at present too clearly demonstrated 
to admit of a doubt, and those idle tales must 
now meet the fate they then merited. 

The following account is given in the Mis- 
sionary Voyage, of the conduct of the Muti- 
neers at, and their departure from Otaheite, 
since which period to the time of Captain 
Folgier's touching at Pitcairnes, every thing 
relative to those infatuated men has been but 
a vague conjecture. 

" The wind blew fresh from Toubouai and 
the intention of our Captain was not to go 
near this Island ; but for the sake of some who 
were desirous of seeing it, we tacked to wind- 
ward, and towards evening got within a few 
miles of it ; he thought it not prudent to land 
On account of the natives being prejudiced 
against the English, through the Mutineers of 
the Bounty, who had destroyed near a hun- 
dred of them. 

* The master of the first ship which touched at Pitcairnes 
Island. 



briton's voyage 79 

" This Island was discovered by Captain 
Cook, in the year 1777, and upon it the un- 
happy Fletcher Christian, with his compani- 
ons, the Mutineers of the Bounty, attempted a 
settlement in 1789. They had with them 
some natives of Otaheite, and live stock of dif- 
ferent sorts. Notwithstanding* the opposi- 
tion they met with from the natives on their 
first arrival, they warped the ship through the 
only opening in the reef ; then landed, chose a 
spot of ground, built a fort thereon, and taking 
their live stock on shore, they intended, had 
the natives proved friendly to their stay, to 
have destroyed the Bounty and fixed them- 
selves there : but their own unruly conduct 
alienated the natives from them, who withheld 
their women, which they were ready to seize by 
violence : they excited the jealousy of the 
chiefs by a friendship formed with one in pre- 
ference to the rest ; they were disunited 
amongst themselves, and many longed for 
Otaheite : they resolved to leave Toubouai, for 
and carry with them all they live stock which 
had brought, the benefit of which the Touboui- 
ans began to understand, and were unwilling 
to see them again all collected and removed. 
This caused the first brawl between the Otahe- 
itean servants, who were driving in the hogs, 
and the natives. Insolence, and want of gen- 



80 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

tleness, and conciliation, led to all the bloody 
consequences which ensued. The natives 
were numerous, and fought with great cou- 
rage, forcing the Mutineers, to avail them- 
selves of a high ground, wherewith their su- 
perior skill, and the advantage of fire-arms, 
and the aid of the Otaheiteans, who fought 
bravely on this occasion, they at last came off 
victorious, with only two of themselves 
wounded, whilst the dead bodies of the Tou- 
bouians covered the spot ; and were after- 
wards thrown up in three or four heaps, Thus 
finding that no peaceable settlement was now 
to be obtained in this place, they shipped their 
live stock, abandoned their fort, and taking 
their friendly chief on board with them, 
weighed anchor and steered towards Matavai 
bay, in the Island of Otaheite. On their pas- 
sage thither it is said Christian became very 
melancholy, confining himself to his cabin, 
and would hardly speak a word to any person ; 
lamenting most probably, that the resolutions 
he had formed without deliberation, and exe- 
cuted with rash haste, had now involved his life, 
and those of his adherents in miserv. As soon 
as they anchored in Matavai bay in Otaheite, 
those who wished to stay there went on shore ; 
but nine of the Mutineers, and also some of 
the native men and women remained on 



81 

board. With these CI ristian cutting the cable 
in the night, put to sea, aid steering to the 
N. W. has never been heard of sin cc." 

We left the friendly Marques'aus on the 2d 
of September, and were proceeding on our 
voyage to regain the port of Valparaiso, steer- 
ing a course which ought, according to the 
charts and every other authority, to have car- 
ried us nearly 3 degrees of longitude to the 
eastward of Pitcairn's Island, and our sur- 
prize was greatly excited by its sudden and 
unexpected appearance. It was in the second 
watch when we made it. At day light we 
proceeded to a more close examination, and 
soon perceived huts, cultivation, and people; 
of the latter, some were making signs, others 
launching their little canoes through the surf, 
into which they threw themselves with great 
dexterity, and pulled towards us. 

At this moment I believe neither Captain 
Bligh of the Bounty, nor Christian, had enter- 
ed any of our thoughts, and in waiting the 
approach of the strangers, we prepared to ask 
them some questions in the language of those 
people we had so recently left. They came — 
and for me to picture the wonder which was 
conspicuous in every countenance, at being 
hailed in perfect English, what was the name 
of the ship, and who commanded her, would 

M 



82 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

be impossible — our surprize can alone be con- 
ceived. The Captain answered, and now a 
regular conversation commenced. He request- 
ed them to come alongside, and the reply was, 
" We have no boat hook to hold on by." " I 
will throw you a rope" said the Captain. "If 
you do we have nothing to make it fast to" 
was the answer. However, they at length 
came on board, exemplifying not the least 
fear, but their astonishment was unbounded. 

After the friendly salutation of good mor- 
row, Sir, from the first man who entered 
(Mackey) for that was his name, "Do you 
know, said he, one William Bligh, in Eng- 
land ? This question threw a new light on 
the subject, and he was immediately asked if 
he knew one Christian, and the reply was 
given with so much natural simplicity, that I 
shall here use his proper words. "Oh yes," 
said he, "very well, his son is in the boat 
there coming up, his name is Friday Fletcher 
October Christian. His father is dead now— 
he was shot by a black fellow. " Several of 
them had now reached the ship, and the scene 
was become exceedingly interesting, every one 
betrayed the greatest anxiety to know the ul- 
timate fate of that misled young man, of whose 
end so many vague reports had been in circu- 
lation, and those who did not ask questions, 



briton's voyage. 83 

devoured with avidity every word which led 
to an elucidation of the mysterious termination 
of the unfortunate Bounty. 

The questions which were now put were 
numerous, and as I am inclined to believe their 
being arranged with their specific answers, 
will convey to the reader, the circumstance as 
it really took place, with greater force than a 
continued relation, I shall adopt that plan, and 
those occurrences which did not lead imme- 
diately to the end of Christian, and the esta- 
blishment of the colony, I will relate faithfully 
as they transpired. 

Question. — Christian you say was shot? 

Answer. — Yes he was. 

Q. — By whom ? 

A. — A black fellow shot him. 

Q, — What cause do you assign for the mur- 
der. 

A. — I know no reason, except a jealousy 
which I have heard then existed between the 
people of Otaheite and the English — Christian 
was shot in the back while at work in his yam 
plantation. 

Q. — -What became of the man who killed 
him ? 

A. — Oh ! that black fellow was shot after- 
wards by an Englishman. 

Q.— Was there any other disturbance be- 



Si* A NARRATIVE OF THE 

tween the Otahetians and English, after the 
death of Christian ? 

A. — Yes, the black fellows rose, shot two 
Englishmen, and wounded John Adams, who 
is now the only remaning man who came in 
the Bounty. 

Q. — How did Adams escape being mur- 
dered ? 

A.- — He hid himself in the wood, and the 
same night, the women enraged at the mur- 
der of the English, to whom they were more 
partial than their countrymen, rose and put 
every Otahetian to death in their sleep. This 
saved Adams, his wounds were soon healed, 
and although old, he now enjoys good health. 

Q. — How many men and women did 
Christian bring with him in the Bounty ? 

A. — Nine white men, six from Otaheite, 
and eleven women. 

Q. — And how many are there now on the 
Island ? 

A. — In all we have 48. 

Q — Have you ever heard Adams say how 
long it is since he came to the Island ? 

A 1 have heard it is about 2a years ago. 

Q. — And what became of the Bounty ? 

A. — After every thing useful was taken out 
of her, she was run on shore, set fire to, and 
burnt. 



briton's voyage. $5 

Q. — Have you ever heard how many years 
it is since Christian was shot? 

A. — I understand it was about two years 
after his arrival at the Island. 

Q. — What became of Christian's wife? 

A. — She died soon after Christian's son was 
born, and I have heard that Christian took 
forcibly the wife of one of the black fellows to 
supply her place, and which was the chief 
cause of his being shot. 

Q — Then, Fletcher October Christian is 
the oldest on the Island, except John Adams, 
and the old women ? 

A. — Yes he is the first born on the Island. 

Q. — At what age do you marry ? 

A. — Not before 19 or 20. 

Q. — Are you allowed to have more than 
one wife ? 

A. — No! we can have but one, and it is 
wicked to have more. 

Q. — Have you been taught any religion ? 

A. — Yes, a very good religion. 

Q. — In what do you believe ? 

A. — I believe in God the Father Almighty, 
&c. (Here he went through the whole of the 
Belief.) . 

Q — Who first taught you this Belief? 

A. — John Adams says it was first by F. 



86 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

Christian's order, and that he likewise caused 
a prayer to be said every day at noon. 

Q. — And what is the prayer? 

A. — It is," — "I will arise and go to my 
father, and say unto him Father, 1 have sinned 
against Heaven, and before thee, and am no 
more worthy of being called thy son." 

Q. — Do you continue to say this every day ? 

A. — Yes, we never neglect it. 

Q. — What language do you commonly 
speak ? 

A. — Always English. 

Q. — But you understand the Otahetian ? 

A. — Yes, but not so well. 

Q. — Do the old women speak English ? 

A. — Yes, but not so well as they under- N 
stand it, their pronunciation is not good. 

Q. — What countrymen do you call your- 
selves r 

A. — Half English, and half Otaheite. 

Q. — Who is your King? 

A. — Why, King George to be sure. 

Q. — Have you ever seen a ship bel'oie ? 

A. — Yes, we have seen four from the Is- 
land, but only one stopped. May hew Fol- 
gier was the Captain, I suppose you know 
him? — No, we do not know him. 
- Q« — How long did he stay ? 

A. — Two days. 



briton's voyage. 87 

Q. — Should you like to go to England ? 

A. — No! I cannot, I am married, and have 
a family. 

Before we had finished our interrogatories 
the hour of breakfast had arrived, and we soli- 
cited our half countrymen, as they styled 
themselves, to accompany us below, and par- 
take of our repast, to which they acquiesced 
without much ceremony. The circle in which 
we had surrounded them being opened, 
brought to the notice of Mackey, a little black 
terrier. He was at first frightened, ran be- 
hind one of the officers, and looking over his 
shoulder said, pointing to the dog, "I know 
what that is, it is a dog, I never saw a dog be- 
fore — will it bite ?" After a short pause he ad- 
- dressed himsef to Christian, saying with great 
admiration,* 1 It is a pretty thing too to look at, 
is it not?" 

The whole of them were inquisitive, and in 
their questions as well as answers, betrayed a 
very great share of natural abilities. 

They asked the names of whatever they saw, 
and the purposes to which it was applied. 
This, they would say, was pretty, — that they 
did not like, and were greatly surprised at our 
having so many things which they were not 
possessed of in the Island. 

The circumstance of the dog, the things 



88 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

which at each step drew their attention or cre- 
ated their wonder, retarded us on our road to 
the breakfast table, but arriving there, we had 
a new cause for surprize. The astonishment 
which before had been so strongly demonstrat- 
ed in them, was now become conspicuous in 
us, even to a much greater degree than when 
they hailed us in our native language ; and I 
must here confess I blushed when I saw na- 
ture in its most simple state, offer that tribute 
of respect to the Omnipotent Creator, which 
from an education I did not perform, nor from 
society had been taught its necessity. 'Ere 
they began to eat ; on their knees, and with 
hands uplifted did they implore permission to 
partake in peace what was set before them, and 
when they had eaten heartily, resuming their 
former attitude, offered a fervent prayer of 
thanksgiving for the indulgence they had just 
experienced. Our omission of this ceremony 
did not escape their notice, for Christian ask- 
ed me whether it was not customary with us 
also. Here nature was triumphant, for I 
should do myself an irreparable injustice, did I 
not with candour acknowledge, I was both 
embarrassed and wholly at a loss for a sound 
reply, and evaded this poor fellow's question 
by drawing his attention to the cow, which 
was then looking down the hatchway, and as 



BRITON'S VOYAGE. 89 

lie had never seen any of the species before, 
it was a source of mirth and gratification to 
him. 

The hatred of these people to the blacks is 
strongly rooted, and which doubtless owes 
its origin to the early quarrels which Chris- 
tian and his followers had with the Otahetians 
after their arrival at Pitcarnes ; to illustrate 
which I shall here relate an occurrence which 
took place at breakfast. 

Soon after young Christian had began, a 
West Indian Black, who was one of the ser- 
vants, entered the gun-room to attend table as 
usual. Christian looked at him sternly, rose, 
asked for his hat, and said, "I don't like that 
black fellow, I must go," and it required some 
little persuasion, 'ere he would again resume 
his seat. The innocent Quashe was often re- 
minded of the anecdote by his fellow servants. 

After coming along side the ship, so eager 
were they to get on board, that several of the 
canoes had been wholly abandoned, and gone 
adrift, This was the occasion of an anecdote 
which will show most conspicuously the good 
nature of their dispositions, and the mode re- 
sorted to in deciding a double claim. The ca- 
noes being brought back to the ship, the 
Captain ordered that one of them should re- 
main in each, when it became a question to 

N 



90 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

which that duty should devolve ; however it 
was soon adjusted, for Mackey observed that 
he supposed they were all equally anxious to 
see the ship, and the fairest way would be for 
them to cast lots, as then there would be no 
ill will on either side. This was acceded to, 
and those to whom it fell to go into the boat, 
departed without a murmur. 

I could wish it had been possible for us to 
have prolonged our stay for a few days, not 
only for our own gratification, but for the be- 
nefit which these poor people would have de- 
rived from it, for I am perfectly satisfied, 
from the interest every one took, nothing 
would have been withheld by the lowest of the 
crew which probability told him would add to 
their comfort : however this was impossible ; 
for, from some cause on the part of the com- 
missariat department, and which I cannot 
well explain, we were reduced to so compa- 
ratively small a portion of provisions, that it 
was necessary to use every means to expedite 
our return to South America, and after ascer- 
taining the longitude to be in 130 ff 25', W. and 
latitude 25° 4'S. we again set sail and pro- 
ceeded on our voyage. 

No one but the Captains went ashore, 
which will be a source of lasting regret to me,. 
for I would rather have seen the simplicity of 



briton's voyage. 91 

that little village, than all the splendour and 
jnagnificence of a city. 

I now lament it the more, because the con- 
clusion of this chapter will be from the rela- 
tion of another, and I was willing to lay as lit- 
tle as possible before the reader, but to what 
I had myself been a witness; still, as I can 
rely on its veracity, I shall hope it will please. 
" After landing'' said my friend "and we had 
ascended a little eminence, we were impercep- 
tibly led through groupes of cocoa-nuts and 
bread-fruit trees, to a beantiful picturesque 
little village, formed on an oblong square, 
with trees of various kinds irregularly inter- 
spersed. The houses small, but regular, con- 
venient, and of unequalled cleanliness. The 
daughter of Adams, received us on the hill. 
She came doubtlessly as a spy, and had we ta- 
ken men, or even been armed ourselves, 
would certainly have given her father timely 
notice to escape, but as we had neither, she 
waited our arrival, and conducted us to where 
her father was. She was arrayed in nature's 
simple garb, and wholly unadorned, but she 
was beauty's self, and needed not the aid of 
ornament. She betrayed some surprize — ti* 
midity was a prominent feature. 

"John Adams is a fine looking old man, ap- 
proaching to sixty years of age. We con- 



92 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

versed with him a long time, relative to the 
mutiny of the Bounty, and the ultimate fate of 
Christian. He denied being accessary to, or 
having the least knowledge of the conspiracy, 
but he expressed great horror at the conduct 
of Captain Bligh, not only towards his men, 
but officers also. I asked him if he had a de- 
sire to return to England, and I must confess 
his replying in the affirmative, caused me 
great surprize. 

" He told me he was perfectly aware how 
deeply he was involved ; that by following the 
fortune of Christian, he had not only sa- 
crificed every claim to his country, but that 
his life, was the necessary forfeiture for such 
an act, and he supposed would be exacted 
from him was he ever to return : notwithstand- 
ing all these circumstances, nothing would be 
able to occasion him so much gratification as 
that of seeing once more, prior to his death, 
that country which gave him birth, and from 
which he had been so long estranged. 

" There was a sincerity in his speech, I can 
badly describe it — but it had a \ery powerful 
influence in persuading me these were his real 
sentiments. My interest was excited to so 
great a degree, that I offered him a convey- 
ance for himself, with any of his family who 
chose to accompany him. He appeared 



briton's voyage. 93 

pleased at the proposal, and as no one was 
then present, he sent for his wife and children. 
The rest of this little community surrounded 
the door. He communicated his desire, and 
solicited their aquiescence. Appalled at a 
request not less sudden than in opposition to 
their wishes, they were all at a loss for a reply. 

His charmina; daughter although inundat- 
ed with tears, first broke the silence. 

" Oh do not, Sir," saidshe "take from me 
my father! do not take away my best — my 
dearest friend." Her voice failed her — she 
was unable to proceed — lent her head upon 
her hand, and gave full vent to her grief. 
His wife too (an Otaheitian) expressed a live- 
ly sorrow. The wishes of Adams soon be- 
came known among the others, who joined in 
pathetic solicitation for his stay on the Island. 
Not an eye was dry — the big tear stood in 
those of the men— the women shed them in 
full abundance. I never witnessed a scene so 
fully affecting, or more replete with interest. 
To have taken him from a circle of such 
friends, would have ill become a feeling heart, 
to have forced him away in opposition to their 
joint and earnest entreaties, would have been 
an outrage on humanity. 

" With assurances that it was neither our wish 
nor intention to take him from them against 



94 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

his inclination, their fears were at length -dissi- 
pated. His daughter too had gained her 
usual serenity, but she was lovely in her tears, 
for each seemed to add an additional charm." 
Forgetting the unhappy deed which placed 
Adams in that spot, and seeing him only in 
the character he now is, at the head of a little 
community, adored by all, instructing all, in 
religion, industry, and friendship, his situa- 
tion might be truly envied, and one is almost 
inclined to hope that his unremitting attention 
to the government and morals of this extraor- 
dinary little colony, will ultimately, prove an 
equivalent for the part he formerly took, — 
entitle him to praise, and should he ever re- 
turn to England, ensure him the clemency of 
that Sovereign he has so much injured" 

The young women have invariably beauti- 
ful teeth, fine eyes, and open expression of 
countenances, and looks of such simple inno- 
cence, and sweet sensibility, that renders their 
appearance at once interesting and engaging, 
and it is pleasing to add, their minds and man- 
ners were as pure and innocent, as this impres- 
sion indicated. No lascivious looks, or any 
loose, forward manners, which so much distin- 
guish the characters of the females of the other 
Islands. 

The Island itself has an exceedingly pretty 



briton's yoyage. 96 

appearance, and I was informed by Christian, 
every part was fertile and capable of being cul- 
tivated. The coast is every way bound with 
rocks, inFomuch that they are at all times 
obliged to carry their little boats to the vil- 
lage, but the timber is of so light a nature 
that one man is adequate to the burden of the 
largest they have. 

Each family has a separate allotment of 
land, and each strive to, rival the other in their 
agricultural pursuits, which is chiefly confined 
to the propagation of the Yam, and which 
they have certainly brought to the finest per- 
fection I ever saw. The bread-fruit and co- 
coa-nut trees, were brought with them in the 
Bounty, and have been since reared with 
great success. The pigs also came by the 
same conveyance, as well as goats and poul- 
try. They had no pigeons, and I am sorry to 
say no one thought of leaving those few we 
had on board, with them. 

The pigs have got into the woods, and many 
are now wild. Fish of various sorts are taken 
here, and in great abundance ; the tackling is 
all of their own manufacturing, and the hooks, 
although beat out of old iron hoops, not only 
answer the purpose, but are fairly made. 

Needles they also make from the same ma- 
terials. Those men who came on board, were 



9(> A NARRATIVE OF THE 

finely formed, and of manly features. Their 
height about 5 feet 10 inches. Their hair 
black and long, generally plaited into a tail. 

They wore a straw hat, similar to those worn 
by sailors, with a few feathers stuck into them 
by way of ornament. On their shoulders was 
a mantle resembling the Chilinan Poncho 
which hung down to the knee, and round the 
waist, a girdle corresponding to that of the In- 
dians at the Marquesas, both of which are 
produced from the bark of trees growing on 
the Islands. They told me they had clothes 
onshore, but never wore them. I spoke to 
Christian particularly, of Adams, who assured 
me he was greatly respected, insomuch that 
no one acted in opposition to his wishes, and 
when they should lose him, their regret would 
be general. The inter-marriages which had 
taken place among them, have been the occa- 
sion of a relationship throughout the colony. 
There seldom happens to be a quarrel, even of 
the most trivial nature, and then, (using their 
own term,) is nothing more than a word of 
mouth quarrel, which is always referred to 
Adams for adjustment. 

Several books belonging to Captain Bligh 
which were taken out of the Bounty were then, 
in the possession of Adams, and the first voy- 
age of Captain Cook was brought on board 



briton's voyage. 97 

the Briton. In the title page of each volume 
the name of Captain Bligh was written, and I 
suppose in his own writing. Christian had 
written his name immediately under it with- 
out running his pen through, or defacing in 
the least that of Captain Bligh's. On the 
margins of several of the leaves were written in 
pencil, numerous remarks on the work, but as 
I consider them to have been the private ob- 
servations of Captain Bligh, and written un- 
suspecting the much lamented event which 
subsequently took place, they shall by me be 
held sacred. 

If the outline I have here given has not 
been adequate to the reader's expectation, I 
trust the short period in which I had to col- 
lect the materials, will, in some degree, plead 
my apology ; under which impression I shall 
leave Pitcairn's Island, but not without a hope 
that its interesting inhabitants will receive 
that support from this country, the peculiar- 
ity of their situation so justly entitle them to, 
and proceed to Valparaiso, where we arrived 
after a voyage of 30 days, when we had nei- 
ther bread in our lockers, nor wine in our 
casks ; therefore, the reader will not be sur- 
prised, if, while he rests, that I should indulge 
myself with a few of the luxuries of the Port. 



98 A NARRATIVE OF THE 



CHAPTER VI. 

The reader will be aware that the period 
afforded me at our first arrival in this port, was 
inadequate to furnish sufficient materials for a 
correct description, either of its importance or 
situation, and will not only attribute any si- 
lence to so obvious a reason, but permit me 
here to make it the theme of a short chapter. 

Valparaiso then may be considered as one of 
the most commodious, opulent, and extensive 
Ports on the coast of Chili, and is situated in 
latitude 33° l 7 south, and in longitude72° 19' 
west, at about ninety miles from the city of 
Santiago, the capital of the country. This 
town being divided into two parts, and known 
by the names of the Port Valparaiso, and the 
Almendrale, I shall to prevent confusion speak 
of them separately. The Port is, doubtless, 
the most ancient, and from its being the im- 
mediate mart for every kind of merchandize 
in the country, it is of the greatest considera- 
tion. The town is built as regular as the 
ground on which it stands will allow, and pos- 
sesses two or three tolerable streets ; the rest, 



briton's voyage. 99 

and which is by far the greatest part, occu- 
pies the sides and summits of those heights, 
which run with great abruptness even to the 
beach. Through each of those streets cross 
several zig-zag roads and smaller paths, lead- 
iug from them to the different dwellings. The 
houses, with a few exceptions (as throughout 
the country) are but one story, and built of 
large unbumt bricks, have rather a mean ap- 
pearance, and those situated on the beach are 
occupied by merchants, either as magazines for 
corn, or ships; and where the principal port 
of their commercial affair is transacted. The 
chief article of commerce consists in corn, cor- 
dage, and copper ; the two first being brought 
from the neighbouring fertile valley of Quillo- 
ta ; the last from beyond St. Jago. 

The custom House, with all its establish- 
ment, is on the beach, and all boats (His Bri- 
tish Majesty's excepted) are obliged to land 
there. Both officers and men belonging to 
this department appear to be vigilant in their 
stations, and steady in the performance of 
their duty ; but I believe, from the Governor 
to the lowest individual in the establishment, 
there are few who can withstand the tempta- 
tion of a " cohecho de oro," or a bribe of gold. 

There are two churches but neither worthy 



100 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

of notice, and monasteries or convents there 
are none. 

In the centre of the town, and commanding 
it in either direction, is situated the citadel, 
consisting of a small battery of 12 guns to- 
wards the sea, and a wall surrounding an in- 
considerable piece of ground, in which is the 
Governor's residence and prison. This place 
bears not the least resemblance to a regular 
fortification, and the rivers described by Fro- 
zier to run on either side, must have been from 
fancy alone. I sought for them, but in vain ; 
however, there are certainly channels, and in 
the rainy season they may contain a conside- 
rable quantity of water — at any other period 
certainly not. There is a deep well in the gar- 
rison, and another greatly within the range of 
its cannon. The whole is in the greatest pos- 
sible state of disorganization, but let it be in 
never so fine a state, it is not tenable against 
any force which may be in possession of the 
heights above, for as the mountain is steep, the 
citadel becomes soon exposed ; insomuch, that 
at the distance of half a gun shot, it is quite 
open and unprotected. 

Castello Blanco, or the White Castle, stands 
on the beach immediately under a high cliff, 
at the west point of the bay, flanking the har- 



briton's voyage. 101 

hour to the eastward. It mounts but 8 can- 
nons, is wholly unprotected from the land, 
and capable of little resistance from the sea, 
as a ship of any force going against it, the 
garrison would not long be able to stand at 
their guns. 

The anchorage here is very good, but the 
most secure and protected is towards the 
White Castle, the opposite side being a shoal 
as well as having some dangerous rocks, which 
are at no period visible above the surface of 
the water. The shore from the citadel to be- 
low the Custom House is very bold, and ships 
of considerable burden can anchor within a 
few yards of the beach, so that they can con- 
veniently take in, or discharge the cargoes. 

It is impossible for ships of force to be sup- 
plied, at any time, with water from the port 
without incalculabe trouble, for it is in the rai- 
ny season alone that there is any, but what is 
contained in the wells; however, at the Al- 
rnendrale it may be procured at all seasons, 
when the surf will permit the boats to land, as 
I shall hereafter mention. 

All kind of trading with this country being 
prohibited by the Spanish Government, the 
quantity of European goods imported here is 
but trifling, and of a most exhanced price; 
but great smuggling is now carried on across 



102 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

the Cordilliras, and all sorts of contraband 
goods are introduced by the British residents 
at Buenos Ayres, and their agents. The im- 
mediate produce of the country is confined to 
corn, hemp, and cordage, which are brought 
here in great quantities, and shipped for Lima, 
and the different ports of Peru ; and as that 
country is nearly as deflitute of these articles 
as Chili is of sugar, coffee, &c. &c. these are 
their principal goods brought back in ex- 
change. In fact, these two countries appear 
dependent on each other ; and without a friend- 
ly underftanding, and which is so much to the 
intereft of both to have, they mull be equally 
distreffed. During the Patre, or revolution in 
Chili, corn in Peru was at 12 and 14 dollars 
the English single bufhel, while sugar and cof- 
fee, in Chili, was at 6s. 6d. or 7 millings the 
pound . 

I muff not omit to mention the market, 
which, with the governor's house, forms a 
square, and is abundantly supplied with every 
article of subsistence, particularly poultry, ve» 
getables, and fruit, whose prices are very mo- 
derate, Notwithstanding the apple is at all 
times so plentiful, and so superior in quality, 
they have not as yet began to make cider. The 
grapes also are of unequalled quality, but 
the wine is seldom drinkable. The peach, 



driton's voyage. 103 

apricot, and nectarine, are in their seasons ex- 
tremely large and of a most delicious flavour. 
The frutillia, or strawberry, although in size 
equal to three or four of ours, is by no 
means so agreeable to the taste. 

This country is abundantly supplied with 
every species of cattle, and an ox weighing 
about 400 lbs. (which is the common size) 
may be procured for 10 or 12 dollars. The 
horses are not large, but finely formed, fleet, 
and spirited ; and when trained, are so tender 
in the mouth, that the most trivial touch of 
the rein is sufficient when going full speed to 
stop them in an instant — -a sharp check, on the 
spot, if the rider be not on his guard, it is 
no more than probable that he will be precipi- 
tated over his head, which was a frequent oc- 
currence with the sailors when on their eques^- 
trian excursions. 

The population of the port, joined to that 
of the Almendrale, is computed by the Spa- 
niards to be nearly 20,000, but I have no con- 
ception it can be so many by nearly a third. 

A mountain whose abrupt, termination leaves 
only sufficient room for a narrow road between 
it and the beach, separates the port of Valpa- 
raiso and the Almendrale, or Almond Grove, 
at the distance of 300 yards; but even in this 
space there are a few hovels formed in the 



104 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

rock, so it may literally be said there is a di- 
rect line of communication from the one to the 
other. 

This place is built on a plain of more than a 
mile in length, and half as much in width, 
and consists of one long street running directly 
through it, with smaller ones leading to the 
right and left. It is said to contain upwards 
of 5000 people — has several small churches, 
and one small monastery. It is so great a 
mart for fruit, that at almost every door there 
are various sorts exhibited for sale. Several 
gardens of great extent are occupied by al- 
mond trees, from which the place derives its 
name. There are also large vineyards, in one 
of which, situated about the centre of the 
town, is the well from whence the shipping 
are supplied with water. In is drawn in buck- 
ets by means of a wheel, and is sufficient to 
keep in continual supply 3 or 4 large oses, or 
pipes. The greatest inconvenience is the dis- 
tance, f400 or 500 yards,,/ to roll the calks, 
they muft also be rafted off, as there is at all 
times too great a surf to get them easily into 
boats. 

At the end of this town commences the 
grand road to the city, made by O'Higgins du- 
ring his presidentship. A guard is always 
kept there, and all travellers muft have their 



briton's voyage. 105 

passports backed by the offices, or at Casa 
Blanca (12 leagues distant) he will be prevent- 
ed from proceeding on his journey. The tem- 
perature here is generally moderate, and the 
country healthy. The thermometer from 68° 
to 73°. 

During the months of June, July, August, 
and September, it is continual rain, and is very 
properly called the rainy season. In the other 
months there is seldom a cloud, and except a 
fog in the morning, it is always serene. The 
country for several miles round, is nothing but 
steril mountains, scorched by the sun in the 
summer, or deluged by the rain in the winter; 
however, the vallies in the interior aje very 
beautiful, and among them Quillota may be 
considered not only the most extensive, but 
fertile. The town, from which it takes its 
name, lies about 30 miles in aN. E. direction 
from Valparaiso, and the road leading to it for 
some distance is rugged, and thecountry barren. 
By this route, you pass the small bay where the 
American Frigate Essex was captured by the 
Phcebe and Cherub, and where many of her 
crew swam on shore, and as many perifhed in 
the attempt. Paffing this place, and ascend- 
ing an eminence, the principal part of the port 
opens itself to view, and with it the traveller 
cannot but be gratified, for notwithstanding 

p 



106 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

the flerility of the mountains, want of cultiva- 
tion, trees, &c. there is a certain ftrangeness 
in the appearance, which excited in me consi- 
derable interest. Advanced thus far, the val- 
ley and town of Quillota appear in front, 
whose lively aspect when compared with the 
country you have passed over, forms a very 
striking contrast. Quillota is most abun- 
dantly supplied with every description of 
fruit, and the only attention paid the trees, is 
causing the trenches in which they are planted 
to be kept constantly moist throughout the dry 
season. This fertile valley is also productive 
of corn, hemp, and cordage, of the finest qua- 
lities, which is generally transported on mules 
to Valparaiso, either for the purpose of being 
shipped or mauufactured The rope when 
made, contains nothing but the hemp in its 
natural state, as the tar of the country is of too 
destructive a nature to be mixed with it, and 
that of Europe too expensive to be brought 
for that purpose. The riches of this valley, are 
not confined alone to the fertility of its surface ; 
the earth for several feet deep, contains a por- 
tion of gold, which is, when warned, of great 
purity. The silver mines likewise are very 
rich. It was here, and in consequence of it? 
abounding in gold, that the Spaniards under 
Peter de Baldivia erected a fort for the security of 



briton's voyage. 10J 

the settlement, and to keep in awe those In- 
dians whom he employed to bring him trea- 
sure. "But," says Frazier, " they poffefled 
themselves of it by a very ingenious stratagem. 
One of those, on an appointed day, carried 
thither a pot full of gold dust, to excite the cur- 
iosity of the garrison soldiers. In a short time 
they all gathered about that little treasure, and 
whilst they were busy contending their pri- 
vate interests, to divide the same, an ambus- 
cade of Indians concealed and armed with ar- 
rows, rushed in upon them, and found them 
defenceless. The victors then destroyed the 
fort, which has never been rebuilt since, and 
they gave over searching for gold there." I 
was not at the town, but am informed by a 
gentleman who had been there, it is very in- 
considerable— -principally inhabited by the na- 
tives of the country, and not containing more 
than a hundred families that are white. Mules 
are the only animals used, to transport their 
goods from one place to another, and conse- 
quently great numbers must be daily employ- 
ed ; in some of the teams 1 have seen upwards of 
three hundred. They travel with great cele- 
rity, and if it be more than one day's journey, 
they are unloaded and their burdens formed 
into an encampment. If the traveller chuses, 
he may return from the valley of Quillota to 



108 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

the port by another route, but before he reaches 
theCamino Real, or royal road, he will find it 
exceedingly rugged and disagreeable. 

In the south-east direction, and about ten 
miles from Valparaiso, is the Lagoon, on 
which there is frequently good shooting. 
Swans are found there, and at times black 
ones. There are also, near this place, some 
very good farms. 

The natives of Chili are very expert at 
throwing the Lesso, and by which every kind 
of animal is caught. The process is thus. A 
man with a rope of 20 yards or upwards in 
length (having at the end to be delivered, a 
noose) coiled in his right hand, turns it twice, 
or thrice over his head to create velocity J ere 
he throws it at the object, which, let it be a 
bull, never so wild, he will be sure to take 
him by the horns or head. They are so ex- 
ceedingly dexterous at this work, that they 
will, with the same facility, take a bullock by 
the leg, as they can by the head or neck. 

When speaking of the garrison, I omitted 
to say the Governor is also military comman- 
dant, and has under him about 700 men, who 
are natives of the country, badly dressed, un- 
disciplined, and 1 believe generally disaffected 
to the Spanish Government. It is hardly 
poflible to impress the reader with a proper 



BRITON S VOYAGE. 1 09 

ktea of their dress or arms ; but a guard, when 
turned out, is the most motley group 1 ever 
beheld or could have imagined. Among a 
score it may be confidered extraordinary, if 
there can be found one pair of shoes or stock- 
ings. Their arms also, are very defective. 

It may not be improper, if I here, by way of 
conclusion to this chapter, make a fhort di- 
greflion, and give an outline of what pafled in 
this country subsequent to our first arrival in 
the port, when we found Capt. Hellier, of the 
Phoebe, had juft returned from Chilan, after 
having succeeded in concluding a treaty with 
the Patriots for an armistice of one year, du- 
ring which period, the country was to enjoy a 
free trade, and the Spanish flag to be refpect- 
ed. By this treaty, and which I have under- 
flood he was authorized to make by the Vice- 
roy of Lima, on any terms, the Spanifh army 
under Gen. Gan^a, was extricated from that 
fate which otherwise awaited it. The priso- 
ners alfo, and among whom were officers of ta- 
lents and diftinction, were set at liberty, and 
conveyed by us, as I have before ftated, to Li- 
ma. This object effected, which was the end 
of the Viceroy's views, he broke the treaty 
entered into on his part by Capt. Hellier, un- 
der a pretence that he had exceeded his in- 
fiructions, and began immediately to prepare 



110 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

a frefti expedition again!! Chili, anil the arri- 
val of the Taiaveia Regimentfrom Spain, which 
thirsted for rapine and plunder, enabled him 
to cany his wilhes into instant effect. This 
expedition, Ossorio, a Spaniard by birth, and 
I understand pofTefled of all the bad qualities 
inherent in his countrymen, without a single 
good one of his own, was appointed to com- 
mand. Every thing to facilitate his comple- 
tion was done, but, however much the viceroy- 
might have wifhed to prevent it, the news 
foon reached Chili, and in the interim, measures 
were taken in that country to counteract his 
dupricity. But thofe who had been in oppo- 
sition to Capt. Hellier's convention, instead 
of uniting with them, upbraided his party 
with treachery, and of having sold their coun- 
try. These reproaches however juftly they 
might have been applied, were fharpened by 
other invectives, and at length their private 
resentment preponderating against the public 
good, hostilities commenced between the two 
parties ; the Carrares heading one, the Roses 
the other. During the internal broils, and 
battles which followed, the common enemy to 
both was wholly loft sight of, and they placed 
themselves on the margin of that precipice 
from which they were ultimately hurled. Os- 
sorio's expedition had been completed, sailed, 



briton's voyage. Ill 

and arrived at Conception ; nay, he was even 
on his march towards Kancagua before their 
unnatural delirium was at all dispatched. 
When he arrived, he found his forces greatly- 
inferior in number to what he had to contend 
with, but relying on the superior discipline of 
the Talavara regiment, be was anxious to bring 
them to battle, as the Chilinans were disunit- 
ed amonst themselves, and destitute even of a 
chief or officer, on whom they could place con- 
fidence for either abilities, or courage. A bat- 
tle soon ensued, and wonderful to relate, the 
Chilinans fought so determinedly,, that for a 
^confiderable time the day was doubtful, and 
it is said that had young Carraresjoined with 
his regiment, instead of standing aloof at this 
critical moment, the Spaniards would have been 
obliged to retreat ; but be this as it may, the 
battle was lost, the Patriots leaving on the 
field more than 1000 in killed and wounded. 
Kancagua was taken immediate possession of, 
the Patriots dispersed, and the Carrares with 
their regiment plundered the churches, and 
levying contributions, crofTed the Cordilleras, 
and reached Mendoza in safety, with booty to 
art immense amount, leaving theunhappy coun- 
try to her fate. St Jago, the Capital, inftead 
of making resistance, erected triumphal 



112 



A NARRATIVE OF THE 



arches for the victor, and strewed flowers be- 
fore him as he entered. Thus was a country, 
which, for four years had breathed the pure 
air of liberty and freedom, subjugated, and 
they may, with great propriety, date the 
epoch of their new slavery, from the period of 
their inconsiderate treaty ofChilan, 




^q 9ui ^3iijfi9icl feud difS9y; 'mo, ici ,rbi 
o}£gu(du8 ,1000391} has \ft3d' ^ 

> Qjfib t ^5>hqoiq iJ59X§ jfjiw ^£111 ^ 

>q aril moil ( ^i3V£lg wan ib:IHo uA 






/ 










briton's voyage. 113 



CHAPTER VII. 

The time now elapsed subsequent to arriv- 
ing in Port, had fully compensated for oursuf- 
erings during our voyage from the Marquesas, 
and as the ship had also undergone a tolerable 
refit, we sailed for the port of Callao, where we 
arrived after touching at Coquimbo, and expe- 
riencing the finest weather, on the fifth day. 

Callao, the port of Lima, stands on a low 
narrow neck of land, near the ruins of the old 
town, and almost level with the sea. This 
Isthmus, for it can be termed nothing else, 
with the Island of San Lorensa forms the an- 
chorage, which is one of the most spacious, 
and beautiful in the world ; and as the wind is 
never tempestuous or strong, excepting when 
indicative of an Earthquake, ships may an- 
chor, or moor in the greatest safety with a 
rope or hawser of comparatively small size. 
The Jutty, or landing place, is formed by a 
ship which was run on shore for that purpose, 
so that the surf being completely broken, 
boats are at all times enabled to land, and lie 
then, with as much security as if in a still 

Q 



I I%dLu i 



if' /<fw- of J_nma, frvm (<)a£t 




WSkP of C Jl L L A 



114 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

i th-T 
pond. To this place there are several streams 
of water brought for the conveniency of ships, 
which can always be supplied with the greatest 
expedition. 

The present town of Callao, does not 
amount to more than 300 houses, which are, 
like those of Paita, built of bamboo and mud ; 
they are equally mean in their appearance, and 
from the numberof sailors which are constant- 
ly here, the greater part of them are occupied 
for public houses, or shops retailing Agua dent 
or spirit of the country. 

The custom house is situated at a little dis- 
tance from the jutty — it is an extensive esta- 
blishment, and, like those at Valparaiso, all 
departments are ready to sacrifice the public 
good, or rather the good of the state, to grati- 
fy their own insatiable thirst for riches. It 
has a governor and a numerous train of satel- 
lites. The trade carried on here is considerable 
from the different countries of Mexico, Quito, 
and Chili ; from whence they are supplied 
with pitch, tar, and sulphur, with wines, spi- 
rits, wood, cocoa, and Guayaquil hats. — Corn, 
hemp, cordage, hides, &c. &c. are generally 
imported from Chili, and from the Island of 
Chiloe the woolen manufactures of the na- 
tives, such as the poncho, and rugs ; some of 
the latter are curious from the strange figures 



BRITON'S mm I'll 

represented, and are generally ufed as carpets for 
the ladies to re It their feet on. Sugar, coffee, 
chocolate, and peruvian bark, are the princi- 
pal articles exported. For the protection of 
the roadltead there are thiee batteries, one of 
which is of o;reat extent and ttroriff. In the 
centre is a chapel, the refidence of the Gover- 
nor, and soldiers' barracks: and under the 
baftions, which are bomb proof, is fufficient 
room to contain the pricipal part of the Spani- 
ards, or people to the number of 6 or 7000. 
The fmaller ones are at a fmall diftance to the 
North, and South, each forming a crefcent 
projecting to the sea, and mounting in barbet 
six long pieces ot ordnance. 

The importance of thefe batteries, as a de- 
fence, or guard for Lima is but little, for (hip- 
ping may anchor, and troops land much out of 
the range of (hot from their longeft pieces ; 
and as the wells of the garrifon contain no- 
thing but water, toobrackifh for long, or con- 
ftant ufe, their prefent fupply, which is 
brought in a canal from the river Lima, can 
be inftantly flopped, which must inevitably 
reduce it in a fhort period. I understood 
they had tried every method, but in vain, to 
prevent fea water from penetrating, and are 
about to make frefh attempts ; but, in my opi- 
nion, if I may judge from the local situation 



116 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

of the place it will be as fruitless as their for- 
mer ones, for the isthmus is narrow, and the 
ground where it stands is the ruins of ancient 
Callao, which was about the year 174-0 swal- 
lowed by one of those terrible convulsions of 
nature, so common in that country. The old 
ruins to a great extent are quite vifible, info- 
much that feveral of the arches of different 
churches are now above the surface. Theysqr 
appear to have gone down bodily, and but 
little out of :? perpendicular ; the one under 
which I went, itOOd perfectly erect. 

In digging the trenches of the batteries, ma«te 
ny thousand sculls have been taken up, which 
are, with other bones, continually carried un*fl* 
derthe roofs of thefeonce splendid sanctuaries, 
and there deposited. The country near Cal- 
lao is very level, and the earth contains such 
an abundance of nitre, that at many places 
the ground is covered with great quantities 
naturally chryftalized ; there is a great deal 
made in the neighbourhood, but particularly 
at Lima. The village of Bella Villa, or Belle 
View, ftands in a pretty fituation, and is an 
agreeable walk in the cool of the evening from 
the Port. The road leading to Lima is very 
commodious and (Iraight, has a wall of mud 
on each fide, and the city, which is feven miles 3 
from the port, being only 300 feet above the sea, 



BRITON-' 8 . V O Y A GE . 1 1 7 

the ascent is hardly perceptible; on the con* 
trary, there is so great a deception, that either . 
going to, or coming from, it has the appearance 
of a descent. 

At about four miles on the road, trees have 
been planted on each fide, which, with the 
gardens being conftantly in bloom for some, 
fruit or other, makes the entrance into Lima 
peculiarly delightful. j B W03re 91E asfloim! 

For the space of two miles from the gates 
there are alio walks with feats on cither fide, at 
convenient diftances, for the accommodation 
of the public, and during the evening they are 
generally frequented by the falhionable part of 
the inhabitants, either in their calafhes or 
coaches, or on foot. 

By this road then, and under a large, but 
n at very magnificent archway, , you enter 
the city of Lima, celebrated for its great riches, 
and having had one of its ftreets paved with 
ingots of silver, as well as having for its foun- 
der the great Francifeo Pizzero, who it seems 
caused it to be begun, either in the year ofour 
Lord 1534, or 153o\ It is, like moll of the 
other towns founded by the Spaniards, laid 
out in squares of 150 yards each way, with 
streets of a proportional width, crossing each 
other at right angles. Those running from 
East to West, have a conftant ltream of water > 
and as the descent is sufficient, all the dirt, 



US A NARRATIVE OF THE 

which, otherwise would be offenfive, is carried 
off. Those going from North to South do not 
poffess this advantage. In this city, it being 
the Spanish Capital of the Peruvian dominions, 
is the residence of the Viceroy, who may in 
every sense be considered as an absolute mo- 
narch. 

The Prefident of Chili is subservient to him, 
but from the diftance which separates them, 
he is precluded from having much controul 
over his actions. The Marquis of Concordia 
was then the Viceroy of Peru, and Ofibrio, the 
Prefident of Chili. 

The extent of this city may be estimated to be 
nearly eight miles in circumference, including 
the suburb on the north fide of the river, or 
about 2 miles 3 quarters in length, and a mile 
and half in width. Its fortification confifts, 
merely of a wall built of unburnt bricks, from 
15 to 20 feet high, and nearly as many thick, 
with baftions flanking each other at a diftance 
not exceeding two hundred yards. 

The width of the bread work from the in- 
fide extremity of the parapet, is by no means 
adequate to permit the mounting of cannon, 
and it appears evident to have been intended 
only to protect the city from the incurfions of, 
or being surprized by the Indians. 

According to Frazier, whose plan, as well 
as description of the place, I found to be ex- 



briton's voyage. 119 

Cjeedingly correct, it was built in 1685 by 
John Ramond a Flemifh Pried in the Viceroy- 
fliip of the Dukede la Plata. 

It is now very neglecled, and out of repair, 
but the disaffecled ftate of the country seems to 
have created some juft alarm among the Spa- 
niards, and the Marquis of Concordia has or- 
dered feveral gateways to be repaired, and the 
wall to be put in a proper ftate of defence ; but 
its great ftate of disorganization precludes its 
being accompliflied in arry reasonable time. 
It pofTefles no kind of ditch, or out-works. 

At about 150 yards, or one square from 
the bridge, is the Placa Real, or Royal Square, 
in the centre of which are the remains ofan ele- 
gant brass fountain ; several of the lions with 
which it was embellifhed, as well as part of the 
statue of Fame ftill remain. The water is 
thrown to a considerable height, and the basin 
is sufficiently spacious for it to fall within its 
margin. On the eaft side of this square is the 
the cathedral, and palace of the bifhop. The 
Viceroy's eftablifhment occupies the North 
fide ; the Weft is taken up by the court of 
juftice, council house, and prison, with a row 
of arches, which are continued throughout the 
South side, and under them are shops of vari- 
ous descriptions. There is a market held in 
this square, but it cannot boaft of any particu- 
lar excellence. 



120 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

"jmoebnad £ sud bnz ^onegsfo \o infoq n- 

The Cathedral does not polTess any external 
3ft J rtiTtnw to qo7 or * ' t <rr//Gj 

beauty ; but the splendour, magnificence, and 

riches of the interior can alone be conceived. 
The enchanted palaces as described in the fai- 
ry tales, recurred to my memory the inftant I 
enteied this elegant sanctuary. The great al- 
tar, (landing at the Eaft-end, is modern, and the 
columns numerous as they are, together with 
every other part, are covered with silver in 
about the thickness of a dollar, and when lit 
up, for the performance of any particular ce- 
remony, its brilliant and beautiful appearance 
cannot be exceeded. Don Mathias Maftro, a 
Pried, was the ..architect. He is also a painter 
of considerable merit. The various altars on 
either side, are equalin richnessif not in beau- 
ty, to the one I have mentioned. The Church 
of San Auguftin may be considered the next 
in beauty, by many I daresay superior to the 
Cathedral ; all the altars are superbly orna- 
mented, and several are of incalculable value, 
but particularly the one, erected at the entire ex- 
pence of the Silversmiths, which is covered with 
solid metal, of more than common thickness, 
it only required a few additional ornaments 
which were in a ltate of readiness, to make it 
complete. 

This church contains some excellent paint- 
ings. San Domingo also vies with the others 



Briton's voyage. 121 

in point of elegance, and has a handsome 

tower, of great height, at the top of which the 
on_B 9DCi90nfn , Q£m tfiohntilci? arft iiiri 

traveller may enjoy a moft extensive, pictu- 
resque, and interefting pfospecl ; and as it is 
difficult for a ftranger to find his way through 
the town, I would recommend him to visit 
this tower the firft thing, as, from a single look 
he will receive more information relative to 
the place, than from studying the Lima direc- 
tory a month. 

As the city contains upwards of fifty 
Churches, and Chapels, the reader will see, 
the impoflibility of my bringing all before him, 
and consider it sufficient, if, in addition to 
those I have already mentioned, "I say that 
S&n Francisco with with La Conception, and 
' La Mercy are the mofl: extensive, as well as 
handsome; although none of the others are 
in the leaft deficient in riches, and splendor. 

The monafteries here, are both numerous 
and spacious, and I should suppose of the dif- 
ferent orders there cannot be less than eight- 
teen or twenty, and some among them con- 

8197HS- 

tain three or four squares, or apiece of ground 
equal at leaft to six acres. 

The largeft of those is, of the Franciscan 
order, and contains from 1200 to 1500 Friars. 



The Auguftins come next, and T think the 
■'X3 9fno3 iniBiE i.idoeidT 



129 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

monaftery itfelf, although not fo large, is much 
. more elegant than the former ; the number of 
monks exceed a thousand. These have two 
or three fmaller ones in different parts of the 
city. There are also numerous eftablifhments 
of this nature tinder the various denominations 
of Dominicans, Benedictines, Mercerarians, 
&c. &c. and are' generally found in the molt 
defirable and advantageous situations. 

Of convents for nuns, there are alfo feveral, 
and of great extent : but those of St. Clare, 
the Carmelites, and the Incarnation are the 
principal ones of note. 

The number of men wearing the monadic 
habit, I was affured exceeded 10,000, and of 
women nearly 6,000, which may be confider- 
ed nearly one sixth of the population of the 
place. Besides the monks, there are a nume- 
rous train of Clerigos, a fort of parifli Priefts, 
who, with the former poffess a life of celiba- 
cy, but, if dete&ed in any frailties of nature, 
their punifhment is not fo exemplary ; their 
oaths being only against matrimony. 

It may be imagined perhaps, in a place, 
where the holy minifters of religion are so nu- 
merous — where sanctuaries for its perfor- 
mance are so splendid, that piety and devotion 
would be predominant features, but the most 
depraved heart is often concealed under this 



briton's voyage. 123 

specious covering, and I am fully jultifietl in 
saying that it is no where more so than here ; 
for the cloi Iters of both sexe?, with a few excep- 
tions, inftead of being the sacred habitation of 
piety, abilinence, and resignation, is that of 
riotous living, debauchery, libertinism, and 
licentiousness. Some of the Fri?rs even boaft 
of their manifold conquers, and numerous 
progeny ; and in many inftances, even that 
small femblance of religion which they affume 
occafionally, is entirely fhaken off. " The 
penitent women" says Frazier il have also a 
place of retreat, but I- do think not it very full, 
because of the little scruple, they make in that 
country of libertinism, and the little care that 
is taken to curb it." 

He could not have come toamorejuft con- 
clusion, and as there appears to have been but 
little, reform, if any at all, in their moral lives 
subfequent to that period, we may be led to 
fuppofe that there are at prefent many vacan- 
cies in this eilablimment, which is known by 
the name of las Amparadas de la Conception, 
or the protected of the Conception. 

In the university of this place, there are fe- 
veral colleges, formed on very liberal princi- 
ples, but now much neglected. Formerly 
they contain or had attached to them, more 
than 150'profeiTors of Divinity, Law, Phyfic a 



124 A NARRATIVE OP THE 

and Philosophy, and feveral thousand ftudents 
were inftructed in every branch of literature, 
but at prefent the number of teachers as well 
as scholars are considerably reduced, and 
science (if there was ever any there) feems to 
have wholly deferted the walls, for with the 
exception of Latin, and a little divinity, there 
is nothing taught. 

The asylum for Lunatics in this city, is very 
extensive and supported by voluntary contri- 
butions. It was exceedingly full when I went 
over it, and every possible attention appeared 
to be paid to the comfort of the patients. 

The Viceroy is at the head of the Royal 
Court, and, if he choses, may preside, but 
this seldom occurs, except in matters of the 
greateft importance, and where the safety of 
the ftate may be affe&ed. 

Sixteen Judges, four Magiftrates, two At- 
torney Generals, and two or three others of 
less note, making in all 2.5 or 26, form this 
August Tribunal, which with the exception of 
the Seraphic Inquisition, is paramount to all 
others. Subservient to this, there are several 
other courts, such as the Court of Juftice, Cri- 
minal Court, Exchequer, Chancery, &c. 
There is also a Mayor, and Aldermen, who 
have a Court for the punifhment of offences 
within their jurisdiction, and not cognisable 



BRITON'S VOYAGE. ] 2 5 

by the others, It will be needless for me to 
say that where Prieftcraft has taken so deep 
root, there are spiritual Courts in abundance ; 
but the rnoft grievous, as well as terrific, 
tS the Inquisition, againft whose decision 
there is no appeal, and from whose prisons no 
one, let him be never so innocent, is safe. The 
accused is always kept in ignorance of his ac- 
cuser, nor has he the privilege allowed him of 
confronting any of the witnesses, which may 
suborned againlt him. 

Many of the Prieilswho are in favor of this 
deteftable eftabliihment, would fain persuade 
you that its abolition was productive of a re- 
gret in the public mind, which its re-eitablifh- 
ment alone has been able to allay : but from 
what I could learn, I am impressed with a ve- 
ry different opinion, and L think the conduct 
demon flrated by the mob, when the Viceroy 
withheld the order for the entire suspensions 
of its functions, is sufficient to bear me out. 
The Marquis of Concordia had received such 
orders from the Cortes of Spain, but being 
himself a favorite of the institution he with- 
held putting it in force for nearly six months, 
and also ftrove to conceal that such orders had 
really arrived ; however, it at length became 
known, when the public^being no longer able 

■ 



126 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

to smother their indignation, joined in one fu- 
rious mob, burit open the gates, and not re- 
garding even their immediate saints, demolim- 
ed every ensign of Inquisitorial power. The 
Council Chamber was deftroyed — the Images 
broken — their records thrown in the ftreets — 
the secret prisons were explored, the innocent 
immured therein set at liberty ; and perhaps, 
had the officers of this seraphic and illustrious 
order been present, they would have experi- 
enced that punifhment which was inflicted on 
the emblems of their tyranny. 

Thus much was related to me by a gentle- 
man who was conspicuous in the affair, and 
willing to possess himself of their records, he 
broke open a desk, which luckily contained 
what he wanted. These proved to be manu- 
script trials, confeftions, and allegations, but 
when the order came for the re-establishment 
of this tribunal, he, dreading lest these docu- 
ments might be found upon him, destroyed 
the greatest part, and was about to set fire to 
the last bundle, when I entered his room. I 
saw they were old manuscripts, and without 
afking their contents, or crime they had com- 
mitted, risqued them from their impending 
danger, and have them now in my poffeffion. 
They contain chiefly allegations againft the 



briton's voyage. 127 

Friars for libertinism, and immorality, and 
even of offering violence to women to whom 
they have been called as spiritual confessors. 

The Inquisition is situate at the eaft part of 
the city, and occupies more than one square. 
It has three entrances, but the moll considera- 
ble one is in the centre, the others being chief- 
ly attached to the residences of it? principal 
officers. The Council Chamber mull have been 
a superb room, and the offices attached to it 
have the appearance of having been once splen- 
did. Behind these, come the carceles secretos, 
or the secret prisons, which are infinitely more 
miserable than the others are elegant. Each 
of these gloomy dungeons, where so many in- 
nocent persons have lingered a life of pain, 
and wretchedness, and of whose fate their 
friends have been ignorant, is about 8 or 10 
feet square, and nearly 20 feet high, having 
at the top a small door, admitting as small a 
portion of light as air, and which is not at 
their own disposal, nor can they enjoy it, but 
at the caprice of those in whose charge they 
are, and is at no period more than sufficient 
for them to discern some figure of torment 
which may be on the wall, for the purpose of 
putting the unhappy victim in mind of death 
or a frightful futurity. 

The different Courts of Inquisition bearing 



12S A NARRATIVE OF THE 

so nice affinity to each other, in their arrange- 
ments, mode of procedure, &c that I cannot 
here resift offering to the notice of the reader 
a few abridged extracts from Monsieur Dellon, 
and I hope they will not not prove uninterest- 
ing. 

"During the months of November and De- 
cember, I heard every morning the fhrieks of 
the unfortunate victims, who were undergo- 
ing the Queftion.* The Auto da fee\ as I 
. 

* The Question evidently appears to be the Torture, of 
which there are three different sorts, and the first being 
the most exquisite, is called the Queen of Torture. The 
criminal's hands being tied behind his back, and fastened 
to a rope, which, by means of four cords drawn over pul- 
lies at each corner of a lofty room, he is hoisted up to the 
ceiling in an instant, when he is again let down within a 
few inches of the ground. This is thrice repeated, and by 
the sudden jirks all his bones are dislocated. In this state 
he hangs until he expires, or confesses. 

2d. Torture.-r-Thc instrument is something like a smith's 
anyil, with a spike not very sharp at the top. Ropes as 
in the former instance, are from the corners of the room 
attached to the criminal's legs and arms ; he is drawn up a 
little, and is then let down with his back bone exactly upon 
the spike of iron where the whole of his weight rests. 

3d. Torture. — Is what they term a slight Torture, and 
applied only to women. Matches of tow and pitch are 
wrapped round their hands, and set on fire until the flesh 
is consumed See Mr. Bower's account of the Inquisi- 
tion at Maccrata. 



briton's voyage. 129 

remember to lia\e heard, was generally cele- 
brated on the first Sunday in Advent, because 
the service read on that day is part ot the Gos- 
pel, - touching on the last judgment, ind the 
Inquisitors pretend by this ceremony to exhi- 
bit a -lively emblem of that awful event. The 
profound silence within the walls enabled me 
to count the number of doors open at the, time 
of meals, and I was convinced of there being 
many prisoners. Advent passed, and I pre- 
pared myself to pass another year in melan- 
choly captivity. On the llth Jan. I was 
aroused from my despair. My prison door 
was opened, the Alciade presented me with a 
habit, and left me with a light in my dungeon. 
The guard came ahout two o'clock, and led me 
into a long gallery, where I found the compa- 
nions of my fate ranged against the wall, and 
had it not been for the movement of the eyes r 
they would have resembled itatues rather than 
animated beings. I was placed amongft this 
melancholy band; those condemned 10 be 
burnt, were with their confessors in another 
part of the room— the women were in a room 
adjoining — we here received a large wax can- 
dle, and a yellow dress, with the cross of Saint 
Andrew, painted before and behind, it is call- 
ed the San Benito. To relapsed -heretics the 
Samarra was given, the colour of which was 
s 



130 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

grey, and on it was was painted the portrait of 
the sufferer surrounded with torches, flames, 
and devils. The Carrochas, or caps of past- 
board, of a conical fhape, covered with de- 
mons and fire, was then presented them. It 
was about sun-rise when the great bell of the 
Cathedral announced to the people ofGoathe 
auguft ceremony of the Auto da Fee, and we 
were led from the gallery into the great hall, 
one by one, and there given in charge of Par- 
rains or godfathers, who were to guard us to 
the place of execution. With them we went 
forth to the street, where I saw that the pro- 
ceflion commenced by Dominican Friars, in 
honour to San Dominic, the founder of the 
Holy Tribunal. As I was not one of the lead 
guilty, I did not go foremost — we walked 
bear-footed through the ftreets, and the fharp 
nones wounded my tender feet dreadfully, and 
caused the blood to ftream. The crowd of 
spectators was innumerable. Arrived at the 
church of St. Francis, the Inquisitor and 
Counsel were on one fide the altar, the Viceroy, 
and Court on the other. The prisoners were 
now seated, and an Auguftin Monk mounted 
the pulpit, and preached for half an hour, and 
I could not help noticing the comparison he 
drew between the Inquisition and Noah's Ark, 
in which he made this diflinction, that the 



briton's voyage. 131 

creatures which entered the Ark, left it on the 
ceflTation of the deluge with their original pro- 
perties, whereas the Inquisition had this sin- 
gular charactereftie, that those who came 
within its walls, cruel as wolves, and fierce as 
lions, went forth gentle as lambs. The sen- 
tences were next read, and my joy at hearing 
I was not to be burnt, but serve in the gallies, 
was extreme. The Prieft, with a wand, gave 
me in turn a stroke on the breast and released 
me from excommunication. Here I can- 
not resiit mentioning a circumftance which 
will shew their excessive superstition in mat- 
ters relating to the Inquisition. During the 
proceflion the person who was my godfather 
(though I frequently addressed him) would 
not speak to me, and even refused me a pinch 
of snuff, so apprehensive was he that in so do- 
ing he should participate in the censure under 
which he conceived me to lie ; but the mo- 
ment I was absolved, he embraced me, present- 
ed me his snuffbox, and told me that thence- 
forth he mould confider me as a brother. The 
victims, deftined to be immolated, were now 
brought forth, and receiving a blow upon the 
bread to signify they were abandoned, they 
were led away to the bank of the river where 
the Viceroy, and Court were affembled, and 
configned to the faggots which had been pre- 
viously prepared." 



132 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

During the period I was employed in visiting 
this place, in which so many innocent beings 
have been the victims of the most remorseless 
tyranny ; the emphatic words of Dr. Bucha- 
nan, in his Christian researches in Asia, recur- 
red to my memory, and I pondered on the 
mysterious dispensation which permitted the 
Minifters of the Inquisition, with their racks, 
and flames, to visit these lands before the he- 
ralds of peace. 

The mint is an eftablifhment of the greatest 
importance both to the ftate as well as to the 
individual. It is exceedingly extensive, and a 
very considerable number of men are continu- 
ally employed, either immediately at the com- 
pletion of the different coins, or separating the 
gold from the earth. This process is rather 
long, and effe6led by quicksilver. The silver 
is generally brought from the mines in Dabs of 
about 120to220lbs weight, and the propor- 
tion of copper to one of the latter is 25ibs. 
which is added in melting. 
The furnace in which this process takes place, 
is of clay, and the heat produced from char- 
coal, blown by a double pair of large bellows. 
When the metal is sufficiently united, it is run 
into moulds nearly a quarter of an inch deep, 
from whence it is conveyed to the machinery, 
which is of inferior powers, but passing through 



briton's voyage. 133 

rollers, it is reduced to the required thickness, 
or so that the punch will cut out the exact 
weight of the coin to be produced. 

After tins, the edge is milled, when it is in a 
ftate for taking the impreUion, which is the fl- 
nifhing ftroke, and is performed by means of a 
itamp, whose power appears to be similar to 
that of our modern printing preffes. This de- 
partment may be confidered a Royalty of it- 
self, as the governor is independent of the 
Viceroy within its walls, and can order the, ex- 
ecution of any person without form, trial, or 
sanction, from another power. There are ma- 
ny clerks who have handsome salaries. 

At the diftance -of a mile and a half in the 
Eastern direction of the city there is an exten- 
sive powder manufactory, and they boa ft of 
its producing the beft article of this kind in the 
world, and I should not be surprized if it was 
so, because the whole of its ingredients are 
found here in great abundance, Near this 
place, is the Pantheon de lbs Meurtos, or the 
Pantheon of the dead, which has so handsome 
and lively appearance that a ftranger would 
not be impressed with an idea of its being the 
sacred repository of those who are no more. 

The river Limac, or Lima, is very incon- 
siderable, except iq the season when the great- 



134 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

est proportion of snow melts. At all other 
periods, it is fordable, and at all places. 

Crofting the bridge, which is not handsome, 
and continuing along the ftreet, you are led to 
the Almeada, or a public walk, so delightful- 
ly (haded by groves of orange trees, that the 
rays of the sun are always broken, and the 
odour from the trees, at all times agreeable. 
It is most frequented on Sunday evenings, but 
wherever the Viceroy goes he is sure to take 
with him a fafhionable retinue as well as a con- 
course of the mobility. 

On this side the river, is the Torus, or Am- 
phitheatre, for the exhibition of the bull fights, 
and it is said to be sufficiently spacious to contain 
20,000 people, and from the number I saw 
there, I have no reason to doubt it. This bru- 
tal amusement, so disgraceful to a civilized 
power, is here held in high eftimation, and is 
generally performed during the months of Ja- 
nuary, February, and March. The manner 
in which the poor animals are fought, are vari- 
ous, but, I will give as correct an outline of 
what I saw as I am able. The number of bulls 
torturedfor one day's amusement and gratifica- 
tion, is confined to a score. Those are placed 
the night preceding the fight in a house, or 
yard appropriated to that use, from whence 

. J 



briton's voyage. 135 

they are taken separately, into a flail of grate 
work, with a door opening into the Theatre. 
In this place they undergo in their turn the 
cruel ordeal of being ornamented with fantas- 
tic articles of finery, sewn either to the fkin, or 
tacked with small nails to the horns, squibs too 
of gunpowder are set off the inftant the door 
opens when the infuriated creature, eager to 
be free from one torture ru flies upon another, 
for it is generally affailed by a fhower of darts, 
carrying with them crackers which explode on 
fticking in the fkin. In this wild ftate it is 
attacked by a gladiator on horseback, who dis- 
plays great agility in his evading the animal; 
others now advance, and after a few turns the 
attractive part of this fascinating amusement 
begins. These men are armed with long 
spears, and pafTing the bull, make a thruft at 
the sinews of the neck, but the inftrument of- 
tener lodges before the fhoulder, and it is not 
unfrequent to see the handles of seven or eight 
iticking up before the fhoulder, the blades hav- 
ing perforated the animal. In this ftate, if it 
be what they call a good bull, it will continue 
to fight, until faint from the loss of blood, it 
drops, when ceasing to afford more amusement, 
it is dispatched and withdrawn from the The- 
atre. The next mode is by a gladiator on 
foot who carries a red flag, and is armed with 



105 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

a small sword, and which is by far the lead 
cruel, for, if he be at ail expert, the animal 
ceases to exilt ac a iingle blow. The Indian 
mode is peculiar to themselves, and not less 
barbarous than the first. They are armed 
with spears, and about six forminga line, march 
boldly towards the bull, who often ftands at 
bay, and when irritated by the arrows before 
described, he plunges upon them, they open, 
and in patting he receives two or three wea- 
pons in the neck ; with which he returns, and 
undergoing the same experiment several times 
is killed. These acts of cruelty are to the Li- 
menans, the greater! treat that can be afforded. 
It is their '''■feast of reason and their fow of 
soul." On one of the animals receiving a 
blow, which draws it from the object of its 
pursuit, or to cause it to ftagger, or drop, the 
Theatre resounds with the most rapturous ap- 
plauses ; but there is one thing to be said, — 
they are impartial inbeftowing it, for the plau- 
dits, on the bull, if he maims, or even kills a 
man, are not less reiterated, than if, by a ju- 
dicious blow, the gladiator had himself gained 
the prize. 

But even where morality, which is the 
ground work of every other perfection, is in so 
little repute, it is ftill to be wondered at, that 
any of the human race (leaving civilization out 



briton's voyage. 137 

of the queftion) can be so deftitute ofhumsni- 
ty. It was the ladies who most excited my 
surprize, for with them those brutal shouts of 
approbation seemed to emanate ; yet ftrange 
to relate they seemed in every other respecl, 
as far as I could perceive, good natured, fa- 
cetious, and agreeable. The Theatre ftands 
in. the city ; it is spacious, but not elegant, 
and the dancing, although not at all in unison 
with the feelings of Englifh modefty, is con- 
fidered delightful. 

There is nothing peculiar in the dress of 
the Limenans, excepting the morning or walk- 
ing habit of the ladies, which at firft has a 
ftrange and disagreeable appearance, but when 
the eye becomes accuftomed to it, this impres- 
sion wears off, and what so many at firft have 
thought disgufting, they have afterwards been 
reconciled to. This dress consifts of a kind of 
petticoat so nicely plaited, that it will ftand 
upright, and a hood tied round the waift, but 
is sufficiently large to be brought over the 
head, which, with the exception of one eye, is 
entirely enveloped. Nothing can facilitate 
an intrigue more than this, because the hus- 
band may meet his wife, the lover his sweet- 
heart, and yet be ignorant of the circum- 
ftance. 

The mountains immediately in the vicinity 
x 



13$ A NARRATIVE OF THE 

of Lima are of little confideration, St. Chrifto- 
val alone being woithy of notice. This moun- 
tain is high, and difficult of access, but as- 
cended to the chapel, or hermitage on the 
summit, the view it affords both of the city, 
and country, even to the Andes, is truly beau- 
tiful. 

The squares which compose the town are 
divided, and subdivided by houses built in 
squares, and which are generally of two fto- 
ries. Their walls are very thick, and from the 
bricks being long, unburnt, and composed of 
elaflic materials, they are calculated the bet- 
ter to withftand the violent fhocks of earth- 
quakes, which prevail to a greater or less de- 
gree , about the months of December and Ja- 
nuary. The houses are built on the moftairy 
principle, are spacious, and handsome, but, 
from the brick floors, together with mats, and 
every other harbour for fleas, their residences 
are exceedingly uncomfortable to an Englifh- 
man ; nor has long habit caused the people 
themselves to be unsusceptible to the annoy- 
ance of these insects, for they are always pre- 
pared with a piece of fleecy cloth about 4 
inches wide, twilled into little tags, and when- 
ever they feel one tickling* (which is very fre- 
quently) this trap is applied and often with 
great fuccess. They are not all scrupulous 

■ 



-ofti'i 



briton's voyage. 139 



about catching these little tormentors, or put- 
ting them to death, let the company be never 
so numerous or splendid, nor do I believe by 
doing it they are conscious of any transgreiTion 
on the (trict rules of modesty. Most of the la- 
dies understand the Piano and Psaltery, and 
all paffionately fond of dancing. There are 
many dances peculiar to the several kingdoms 
of South America, as in Peru that of Choco- 
latte, and in Chili, la Balsa de Tierra. The for- 
mer has much the greateft portion of modefty, 
and as well as the latter, is performed by two 
people only. 

The population of Lima, consists of Spaniards, 
Creoles, native Indians, and African slaves, and 
in either their manners, or customs, there is no- 
thing very peculiar, as the subordinate clafFes 
follow the fafhion most predominant among the 
Spaniards. Their hours of visiting, commence 
in the cool of the evening, and continue to a 
late hour in the night. The guests are re- 
frefhed with ices, lemonade, and preserves ; and 
amused with either singing, accompanied with 
the guittar or psaltery, or dancing, to which 
may be added the- more faftiionable accom- 
plishment of gambling. A: their meaisthey have 
a prodigious number of dishes, and generally 
partake h small portion of ^ach; a stranger 
therefore if he studies his own comfort should 



MO A NARRATIVE OF THE 

be careful not to dine entirely from the first nr 
second course, for the importunity he will 
meet with, to partake of the several subsequent 
ones will be so repeated, as to constrain him 
to commence again, however much it may be 
against his inclination. Indeed they are very 
hospitable, and betray great anxiety to have 
the visits of strangers, and use every means to- 
rnake that visit agreeable. The spirit of gal- 
lantry is no where carried to a greater extent 
than in Lima, and a man of the most advanced 
age, enters the list with the young, gay, and 
giddy. This is very conspicuous at their 
routes, and must be productive of considera- 
ble amusement to any stranger. Their enter- 
tainments, or galas are splendid, and arranged 
with greattaste; in fa£t, there is such a degree 
of emulation and spirit ofrivalry amongft the 
fair sex, that they study to eclipse one another 
in the beauty, magnificence, and profusion of 
their preparations. The supper having been 
removed, and nothing but the dessert, which is 
comprised of the choisest fruits, and confec- 
tionary in all its various forms and clalTes re- 
maining, the party stand prepared for the at- 
tack, and at a given signal the work of devas- 
tation commences, when all is the most com- 
plete confusion. Pyramids torn to their foun- 
dation — Pagodas upset — Images broken, and 



briton's voyage. 141 

in this extraordinary scramble, they are intent 
not on eating-, but on collecting as great a 
portion as poiTible, which is secured either in 
pockets, handkerchiefs, or hats, and he who on 
the following day presents the greatest num* 
ber of young ladies with a proper fhare of the 
entertainment, isconfidered of the greatest gal- 
lantry ; and I have seen the eyes of an old Don 
of eighty years of age, sparkle with the fire of 
satisfaction at displaying his booty, and con- 
templating the pleasure which awaited him in 
the morning, when his favorite mistrefies 
would become the fharers of his trophies. 

Prior to the conquest of Peru by the Spaniards, 
the only animal which had been domefticated, 
and used to carry a burden, was the lama, but 
fince the introduction of horses, and mules, It 
has gradually been neglected, and is now only 
used by some of the lower Indians in the in- 
terior. The lama, in fhape somewhat resem- 
bles the camel, but its hair, or wool is prodigi- 
ously long, and of a very fine texture. It is 
calculated to carry a burden not exceeding a 
hundred pounds, travels very ftately at his own 
rate, and when tired, stops of his own accord, 
nor is it poffible the guide or drivers can make 
it resume its journey until it has refted suffici- 
ently. In their wild ftate tfrey are exceeding- 
ly fleet, and inhabit the most mountainous and 



142 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

rocky places. I he Guanaca is a species or the 
lama, smaller and but seldom used to carry a 
load. It is an inhabitant of the Andes, and 
is most plentiful in the kingdom of Chili. Like 
sheep, they do not polTess upper teeth, and 
having a valve or aperture in the upper lip, 
they emit through it with considerable force, 
for their defence, when attacked or irritated, a 
slimy sour liquid. 

Almost every kind of fruit is found here in 
the greateft abundance, as well as perfection ; 
but those held in the higheft ellimation are 
the granadellia, and cherymoya ; the latter re- 
sembles the soursop of the West Indies both 
in appearance and tafte, but it certainly is much 
more delicious. 

The temperature of Lima, or in fact the 
whole extent of the vast coait of South Ameri- 
ca, when compared to that of the same latitude 
either on the coast of Brazil or Africa, is ex- 
ceedingly mild and temperate, the reason of 
which is so pleasingly described by the learned 
Dr. Robertson in his general history of Ameri- 
ca, that I cannot withhold from introducing 
the following quotation. " While the negro" 
says the historian " on the coast of Africa, is 
scorched with unremitting heat, the inhabi- 
tant of Peru breathes an air equally mild and 
temperate, and is perpetually shaded under a 



BRITON S VOYAGE. 143 

canopy of grey clouds, which intercept the 
fierce beams of the sun, without obltructinsr his 
friendly influence.* Along the eastern coast of 
America, the climate, though more similar to 
that of the torrid zone in other parts of theearth, 
is nevertheless considerably milder than in those 
countries of Asia and Africa, which lie in the 
same latitude. If from the southern tropic, we 
continue our progress to the extremity of the 
American continent, we meet with frozen seas, 
and countries horrid, barren, and scarcely habi- 
table for cold, much sooner than in the North. 
Various causes combine in rendering the 
climate of America so extremely different from 
that of the ancient continent. Though the 
utmoft extent of America, towards the North, 
be not yet discovered, we know that it ad- 
vances mnch nearer to the pole than either 
Europe or Asia. Both these have large seas 
to' the North, which are open during part of 
the year; and, even when covered with ice, 

; . _ 

* Ulloa, the navigator, from whom the Historian takes 
his authority, is certainly incorrect, for the sun is only ob- 
scured by clouds, from the period of his entering his 
Southern Solstice, to the time of his quitting it, when, the 
clouds disperse, and the sky becomes visible and serene fov 
the following six months; This I had an opportunity of 
observing myself. 



144 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

the wind that blows over them is less intensely 
cold, than that which blows overland in the 
same high latitudes. But in America, the 
land stretches from the river St. Lawrence to- 
wards the pole, and spreads out immensely to 
the west. A chain of enormous mountains, 
covered with snow and ice, runs through all 
this dreary region. The wind in pafling over 
such an extent of high and frozen land, be- 
comes so impregnated with cold, that it ac- 
quires a piercing keenness, which it retains in 
its progress through warmer climates, and it 
is not entirely mitigated until it reaches the 
gulph of Mexico. Over all the continent of 
North America, a north-wefterly wind, and 
exceifive cold are synonymous terms. Even 
in the most sultry weather, the moment that 
the wind veers to that quarter, its penetrating 
influence is felt in a transition from heat to 
cold, no less violent than sudden. To this 
powerful cause, we may ascribe the extraordi- 
nary dominion of cold, and its violent inroads 
into the Southern provinces in that part of the 
globe. Other causes, no less remarkable, di- 
minish the active power of heat in those parts 
of the American continent which lie between 
the tropics. In all that portion of the globe, 
the wind blows in an invariable direction, 
from Eaft to Weft. As this wind holds its 



briton's voyage. 145 

course across the ancient continent, it arrives 
at the countries which stretch along the west- 
ern fhores of Africa, inflamed with all the fiery- 
particles which it hath collefted from the sul- 
try plains of Asia, and the burning sands in 
the African deserts. The coatt of Africa, is, 
accordingly, the region of the earth which 
feels the most fervent heat, and is exposed to 
the unmitigated ardour of the torrid zone. 

But this same wind which brings such an ac- 
ts - . 

cemon of warmth to the countries lyinjj be- 
tween the river of Senegal, and Cafraria, tra- 
verses the Atlantic Ocean, before it reaches 
the American more. It is cooled in its pas- 
sage over this vast body of water, and is felt 
as a refreshing gale along the coast of Brazil, 
and Guiana, rendering these countries, though 
among the warmest in America, temperate, 
when compared with those which lie opposite 
to them in Africa. As this wind advances in 
its course, across America, it meets with im- 
mense plains, covered with impenetrable forefts, 
or occupied by large rivers, marshes, and Stag- 
nating waters, where it can recover no conside- 
rable degree of heat. At length it arrives at 
the Andes, which run from North to South 
through the whole continent. In pa fling over 
their elevated, and frozen summits, it is. so 
thoroughly cooled, that the greater part of the 

u 



14r6 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

countries beyond them, hardly feel the ardour 
to which they seem exposed by their situa- 
tion. In the other provinces of America, from 
Tierra Firme weftward to the Mexican em- 
pire, the heat of the climate is tempered, in 
some places, by the elevation of the land 
above the sea, in others, by their extraordina- 
ry humidity, and in all, by the enormous 
mountains scattered over this tracl. The is- 
lands of America, in the torrid zone, are either 
small, or mountainous, and are fanned alter- 
nately by refrefhing sea and land breezes." 

For a considerable extent, along the coafl of 
Peru, as well as some diftance in the interior, 
they have no rain, or nothing more than a driz- 
zle, or small mist, called by the Spaniards nie- 
bling. In fact, if they mould be visited with 
a phenomenon of this nature, their houses be- 
ing of a nature so susceptible to it, it would 
probably be attended with serious conse- 
quences. The dews here are very heavy. 

In taking a view of the mines and mineral 
productions of South America, Potosi, from 
its celebrity, seems to claim a just priority, 
not more, from its natural situation, than from 
the abundance of metal which has been ex- 
tracted from it. The mines of Potosi are si- 
tuated in a mountain resembling a sugar loaf, 
standing in a spacious plain, and at the bot- 



briton's voyage. 147 

torn, about a league in circumference. Garul- 
lasso, the Hiftorian, from whom I take this in- 
formation, does not give the altitude of Mount 
Potosi, but leaves us to cenjeclure what it 
may be from its summit (which is a quarter of 
a league round) being exceflively cold and fre- 
quently coveted with snow. From its bearing 
the Indian name of Puno, signifying a place 
uninhabitable from cold, we may conclude 
that the whole of this district, notwithstanding 
its proximity to the equator, is of a frigid tem- 
perature. "The climate of Potosi" says an 
author whose name I cannot well recollect "is 
so cold, that the Spanish women could not lay 
in there, without running imminent risk of 
their lives." 

This mine appears to have been first disco- 
vered by some Indian servants of the Spani- 
ards, about 40 years after their entering that 
country, and at the period, when Gonzales 
Pizarro had in the neighbourhood, his reparti- 
mento, or colony of Indians. These people 
not being able to enjoy the unrestricted plea- 
sures of their fortune, or conceal it long from 
their masters, discovered it to them. Subse- 
quent to which period, it has not only been 
worked to a o-reat extent, but has also caused 
a town of considerable population to be built 
in the neighbourhood, and is now known by 



148 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

the name of Potosi. The silver extracted from 
this mine, at present, is very inconsiderable, 
the mountain having been worked in so many- 
places, that it is now quite exhausted. 

The mines of Choco produce Platina.* 
Those of Carabaya, Kimani near La Paz, Nas- 
ca, and Tiavaya are the principal gold mines. 
Vilques, and Huancavilica are famous for their 
quicksilver. Those ofYauli, Uchumayo, Are- 
quipa, and Cocctea produce the different ores 
in all their claffes of silver, copper, lead, iron, 
and cobalt ; also those of antimony, arsenic, and 
magnesia. Neither of these mines are at pre- 
sent worked to any considerable extent, owing 
to the inferiority of their machinery, but they 
w r ere in daily expectation of engines, from 
England, when their works would again be 
resumed. 

The cities, or towns of most consideration 
in the kingdom of Peru, are Cuzco, Arequipa, 
Huancavilica, Truxillo, Tarma. It will be 



* M. Von Humbold has recently presented to the King 
of Prussia's Cabinet of minerals, the only lump of native 
platina that is known. He obtained it in 1800 in the soap 
manufactories of the town of Todda, in the province of Cho- 
co, in South America. This ingot is of the size of a pige- 
on's egg, and its absolute weight is 10,386 grains 3 and its 
specific weight 16,037 grains. 



briton's voyage. 149 

hardly necessary to inform the reader, that the 
former of these is the most ancient, or that it 
had for its founder, Manco Capac, or the first 
Inca. This city has been subsequently the 
royal residence of eleven of his illustrious race, 
when Atuhuallpa, or the twelfth Inca, usurped 
the throne, and after having been guilty of the 
most atrocious murders, and cruelties, on the 
legitimate descendants, lost his own domini- 
ons, and was himself strangled by the Spani- 
ards under Pizarro. The no less strange than 
incestuous custom of keeping the royal blood 
pure, by marrying the presumptive heir to the 
throne, to his eldest sister, appears to have 
been continued, even to the latest periods of 
their sovereignty, or to the time of the revolu- 
tion of Atuhuallpa. Huana Capac, the last 
Inca, and father of Huascar, and Atuhuallpa, 
married first his eldeft sifter, who proving bar- 
ren, married his second or youngest, Rava 
Oclla, by whom he had Huascar, the legitimate 
heir to the throne. Atuhuallpa was by the 
daughter of the King of Quito, whom he had 
conquered, and was considered illegitimate.* 
Manco Capac, in his distribution of the ci- 



* See Garcillazo de la Vegas Commentaries, Vol. L 

page 275. 



150 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

ty of Cuzco, displayed great talents, for few 
seem to be laid out to greater advantage. The 
Royal Palace, the Temple of the Sun, the of- 
fices of state, and houses belonging to the prin- 
cipal subjects, occupied an eminence, and re- 
ceived the name of Hanaun Cuzco, or Cuzco 
upon the hill, the remaining part being situat- 
ed in the plain, is called Huin Cuzco. By the 
road of Antisuya the city is divided, and the 
minor divisions though numerous, are regular, 
for as the Inca reduced the savage people, 
which then inhabited the country, to his sub- 
jection, so he placed those he brought with 
him to the city, in the direction such conquest 
lay. Thus if the conquered came from the 
east, in an easterly direction from this Palace, 
a place was appropriated for their establish- 
ment, iffromthe west, in the west, and so on. 
Their immediate governor was taken or ap- 
pointed from amongst them, and they were 
allowed to enjoy the customs used in their 
different countries. "Notwithstanding" says 
Garcillazo (Vol I. page 299) the city contain- 
ed upwards of 100,000 people of different na- 
tions, each might with ease be distinguished 
"by the colour of the turban, but this mode of 
distinction was not an invention of the Inca, 
but a custom of their own." Be this as it 
may, the manner in which Manco Capac di- 



BRITON S VOYAGE. 151 

vided the city, is a strong presumptive proof 
that with him, this also originated. The Tem- 
ple of the Sun appears to have been a most 
stately, and magnificent place, and in it / the 
Spaniards must have found immense riches, 
the walls being covered with gold, and the 
Image of the Sun which reached across the 
east end, was of the same metal, and of great 
thickness. This Temple is now become ths 
Church of San Domingo. Many of the tombs 
appear to have been curiously cutout of Crys- 
tal, and must have been exceedingly hand- 
some. In some of these repositories, water 
vases of strange and extraordinary figures, 
are sometimes found, and I was fortunate 
enough to alight on two during my stay in 
Lima. In the immediate neighbourhood of 
Cuzco there are no rivers, but the small streams 
are sufficient for the irrigation of the plain. 
There are but few Spaniards in Cuzco, at pre- 
sent, and I am inclined to believe the natives 
are anxious to throw off the grievous yoke 
which they have so long worn. In their sta- 
ture, the Indians are of a middle height, and 
muscular, having very little beard, but not as 
some historians assert, entirely without it; 
they are of a bright copper colour, wide coun- 
tenances, without much expreffion, black eyes, 



1,52 NARRATIVE OF THE 

hair of the same colour, which is coarse and 
long. 

Arequipa may be considered the next place 
of importance, and its extent conceived from 
the population exceeding 100,000 people who 
when we were at Lima, were in an open state 
of rebellion against the State of Spain. The 
misti, or volcano of Arequipa is one of the 
highest mountains of the Andes. The section 
which I here introduce, was taken by Mr. Cur* 
son, a gentleman of great knowledge, when he 
succeeded in reaching the summit, and as it 
may not have come before the reader already, 
I hope he will not be displeased by my laying 
it before him, and when he has given it an ex- 
amination, he will find that the fhip being 
ready for sea, we weighed anchor on the 22d 
of January, and after a voyage of 20 days, ar- 
rived at Juan Fernandez, and notwithstand- 
ing we did not find it that earthly paradise 
described by Lord Anson, it is exceedingly 
beautiful, and capable of every improvement. 

This Island rendered of so much celebrity 
by the ingenious pen of Daniel De Foe, in his 
interesting History of Robinson Crusoe, is 
now become the place of exile for the Patriots 
of Chili, and it is no more than probable ; the 
suffering of these poor old men will at some 



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briton's voyage. 153 

period, prove a theme for another novel of 
equal interest. 

On Ossorio's getting posseflion of Chili, the 
head of every family (let his innocence be ne- 
ver so conspicuous) if suspected of being at all 
hostile to the royal cause, was arrested, drag- 
ged from the bosom of his family and friends, 
and banished to this spot; and on our ar- 
rival here, we found about sixty hoary head- 
ed venerable men, who had ever been accus- 
tomed to the luxuries, and magnificence of a 
• palace, reduced to the lowest ebb of misery, 
and on the very point of starvation ; living in 
hovels scarcely habitable, and deprived of eve- 
ry thing tending to lighten the grevious yoke 
of captivity. But a few months before, we 
had seen many of them living in the greatest 
affluence, and had often experienced their hos- 
pitality. To one of those unfortunate gentle- 
man, whose name is Rosalies, and who had 
been formerly a member of the Junta, the in- 
dulgence of his daughter accompanying him 
was allowed. This amiable, and affectionate 
young lady, immediately on her father's arrefl 
solicited herfelf the favour, and when it was 
granted to her, she was deaf to ail persuasions 
having a tendency to weaken the resolution 
she had come to ; and to see the care, and as- 
siduity with which she flrove to ameliorate his 

x 



154< A NARRATIVE OF THE 

sufferings — to diflipate his grief — to render 
his captivity less poignant, was truly admira- 
ble, and may we not hope such a genuine 
mark of filial affeclion, will ultimately meet 
with that reward to which it is so pre-emi- 
nently entitled ! 

The principal anchorage in the Island of 
Juan Fernandez, is Cumberland bay, wl '~ h is 
neither commodious, nor safe. Neai 
beach, amongst the various fruit trees, is bi .t 
a litlle village, where the unhappy victims of 
the most cruel, unrelenting, and vindictive 
tyranny reside. The village is commanded 
by a small battery containing about 100 sol- 
diers badly armed, and miserably equipped. 
The whole of Juan Fernandez is exceffively 
mountainous, and romantically picturesque ; 
posselfing several crystalline streams of water, 
and a soil of great fertility. It is fupposed by 
many to be a volcanic subftance, but, when I 
succeeded in gaining the summit of several of the 
mountains, I could not discern the remains of 
any old craters or eruptions. The mountains are 
also considered by some to be richly ftored with 
ores, and I think it is not improbable, that this 
may prove, at some future period, to be the 
case, for luminous bodies, and meteoric sub- 
fiances are frequently seen to rise from, as well 
as to descend into several parts of the Island, 



briton's voyage. 155 

and, however simple this may appear, it is a 
strong indication, that ore of some class or 
other is in the neighbourhood, insomuch, that 
whenever a phenomenon of this nature is seen 
by the Devon or Cornifh miners, they always 
examine the earth, and their search under these 
circum fiances, is generally attended with suc- 
cess. The same may be a criterion for the 
Island of Juan Fernandez. 

The earth of this Island is in many places of 
the colour of a bright red ochre,* but not 5 as is 
afferted in the Voyage of Lord Anson, equal 
to or exceeding in brilliancy the colour of Ver- 
million. It is very fine, and when ground 
with oil is a very good pigment, and answers 
exceedingly well for drapery. 

The seeds left here by Lord Anson, have 
been every where productive, and the peach, 
the apricot, and nectarine, with plums, &c. 
grow spontaneously in the woods,, with other 
trees. There is also an abundance of wild tur- 
nips, parsley, oats, and the long grass com- 
mon to European countries. 

In ascending the mountains, it is neceflary 
to use the greatest care, for the looseness of 
the soil, gives to the trees so little holding, 



* See plate which is printed in the native colour of the 
earth of this Island. 



156 A NARRATIVE OF TIIC 

that with many, the weight of a man would 
be sufficient to precipitate it down the rocks, 
and with it, if he be not on his guard, he 
would himself be hurled. This circumftance 
renders an excursion of this kind extremely 
hazardous, and I doubt not intimidates many 
from undertaking it, and consequently pre- 
cludes them the pleasure of contemplating the 
most romantic, strange, and incomprehensible 
scenery which can be found in the formation 
of the universe. The box and myrtle trees 
are every where conspicuous. In the moun- 
tains, there area great number of goats, but 
are difficult to be taken. There are also a 
confiderable number of wild bullocks. The 
common pigeon of England, become wild, are 
found in great abundance. There are no veno- 
mous reptiles. At certain periods of the year 
this Island is vifited by the sea lion, which ac- 
cording to the account of Lord Anson, is so 
immensely large as to produce several hogs- 
heads of blood, as well as much oil and blub- 
ber. They are considered a species of the seal, 
which are found here at times, in great plenty, 
but during our stay at the island, I did not see 
any. The number of dolphins and flying fifh, 
we saw in Cumberland bay, is really aftonifh- 
ing, and of the latter some were taken, measu- 



briton's voyage. 157 

ring twenty-six inches. Fifh of various other 
sorts are also very plentiful. 

To expedite the completion of our wood and 
water, a tent was conltructed on fhore, and two 
men were kept there during the night to guard 
the implements for cutting wood, &c but the 
temptation was too great to be withltood by 
people having so great a propensity to thiev- 
ing, as the Spauiards, and on the third night 
some of the garrison entered with their knives, 
when the man on watch was obliged to fly, the 
other who was in his hammock, was cut dread- 
fully, aud thrown over the cliff, but he did 
not receive much injury by the fall, and his 
wounds were afterwards healed. The depre- 
dators plundered the tent of every thing, and 
escaped with their booty, ere a boat could 
reach the shore from the fhip. The governor 
appeared to make a great fearch for the articles 
flolen, but I muft confess, I entertain some 
doubts whether he was not acceffary to the af- 
fair, and if so he would only be treading in the 
fteps of his predeceffor, who but a few years 
before plundered the American ship Topaz . 
(Capt. Folgier) of even everything she had on 
board, reserving for his own (hare all the valu- 
ables, among which was a chronometer, belong- 
ing to Capt. Bligh of the Bounty, Adams hav- 
ing made it a prefent to Capt. F. at the time he 



158 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

touched at Pitcairn's Island, and which I am 
given to underftand he intended to return to 
its original pofTefTor. 

The temperature of Juan Fernandez, is ex- 
ceedingly disagreeable, though not unhealthy, 
and changes three times a day ; in the morning 
it is a thickfog with rain, in the middle of the 
day exceedingly warm, and at night the wind 
is ftrong, and piercingly cold. 

Having completed our wood and water, and 

relieved the unfortunate exiles to the greatest 

exte-nt in our power, we left Juan Fernandez, 

and on the 19th of February, came again to an 

anchor in the Bay of Valparaiso. 



BRITON^ VOYAGE. 159 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Sir Thomas Staines having with great kind- 
ness acceded to my application for leave to vi- 
sit the Capital of Chili, and my paflport from 
the governor procured, I set off on my jour- 
ney, at about four o'clock in the afternoon, and 
reached Casa Blanca soon after eight. It was 
necessary to halt here for a little refrefhment, 
as well as to call on the governor or comman- 
dant of the place, whom 1 found, and 1 doubt 
not, pleasantly engaged, with some young la- 
dies, at the Curate's house. They were pret- 
ty girls, and treated me with great politeness, 
but as I was anxious to pursue my route, I 
could not avail myself of their kind invitation, 
to spend the evening with them. 

As the nioht had shut in, I could see but 
little of the place, but on my return I found 
it a long straggling village, fituated at the end 
of a barren plain, at about 12 leagues from the 
port. The inn, if it will bear so dignified a 
name, is a mean hovel, and in the room where 
I supped, there were four small beds, on one of 
which I reposed for a fhort period. For my 



160 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

supper I had fowls ftewed in rice, and pickled 
fifh ; the former was by no mean an objection- 
able dish. The wine was new and very bad — 
the spirits not drinkable. My expences here 
including the horses and guide, amounted to 
only a dollar. 

About twelve o'clock my guide informed 
me it was time to prepare for ftarting, or we 
fhould have to travel in the heat of the day, to 
reach Santiago, which he thought would to me 
be disagreeable. I did not wait a second call, 
and we were soon on the road. 

The night was dark, and chilly, and I found 
the poncho, used by the natives, of greater ser- 
vice than any great coat I could have had. 
About day-light we reached the summit of the 
mountain Zapata, which is very high, and 
we ascended by a zig-zag road made by O'Hig- 
gins, an Irishman, in the time of his presiden- 
cy in the kingdom of Chili. When the fog 
cleared away, the country around afforded me 
a most delightful view ; the vallies which are 
all supplied with water, being perfect gardens, 
and some, of unequalled sterility, forming a 
ftriking contraft. The mountains are very 
barren, and the earth from most of them is 
warned away. The vallies are perfectly level, 
and break from the mountains with great ab- 
ruptness. In the interior of Chili, I did ob- 



briton's voyage. l6i 

serve any hills running immediately into the 
plain. 

By nine o'clock,, we had reached CuraCavee" 
where we were joined by a Spanish Gentle- 
man, and an escort of soldiers, with whom I 
breakrWed on a jftew of various ingredients, 
boiled eggs and agua dent, for which repast 
both parties (eight in number) paid a half dol- 
lar. This really excited my aftonifhment, and 
I could not but give the child of our host 
the other half, who prayed to the Holy Virgin 
to frank me through life with every blefling. 

We now proceeded on our journey to the 
foot of the second questa or mountain, when it 
became quite clear, and the refreshing breeze 
which had hitherto accompanied us, having 
died away, we found the heat so oppressive, 
that we gladly took shelter at a farm-house in 
the plain of Poangue, which lay near the road, 
and where we experienced great hospitality 
from its inhabitants. A repast of meat and 
fruit was soon ready for us, as well as some of 
the best wine I found in the country, and after 
giving a little indulgence to our appetites, we 
stretched our saddle cloths, and each accord- 
ing to the custom of the country, wrapped 
himself in his poncho, and retired to rest. 

About 3 o'clock our guides were again on 
the alert, who informed us it was time to pro- 



162 NARRATIVE OF THE 

ceed, and in a few minutes we were again on 
tho road. 

The mountain of Prado,* which was now be- 
fore us, is of a prodigious height, and as we 
had left the main road for a nearer cut, and the 
country bearing nothing but a dry thorn, it 
was very disagreeable. Here my companion's 
horse became tired, but not more so, I believe, 
than he was himself; however, the first diffi- 
culty was soon obviated, for a team belonging 
to some farmers in the neighbourhood was 
flopped in the king's name by the soldiers, and, 
one of the horses taken out, and I doubt not 
sold immediately on their arrival at the city. 
The fatigued horse was not left as an equiva- 
lent. This incident gave me a pretty clear 
conception of the beauties of the Spanish con- 
stitution, or rather of the grievous burden un- 
der which the poor Chilinans groan. 

We crofTed this mountain, whose summit 
afforded me the most rapturous view it is poffi- 
ble for the imagination to conceive, or fancy 
paint. In an instant, the ftupendous ridge of 
the Andes or Cordilleras presented themselves 
to us, reducing those, which I had before con- 
sidered inaccessible, to the comparative insig- 
nificence of a mole hill. This magnificent 



* This mountain is called by Vancouver, Praow. 



briton's voyage. 163 

chain of mountains, as is observed by Dr. Ro- 
bertson, no less remarkable for extent, than 
elevation, rises in different places more than 
one third above the Peak of Teneriffe, the 
highest land in the ancient hemisphere. The 
Andes may literally be said to hide their heads 
in the clouds ; the ftorms often roll, and the 
thunder bursts below their summits, which 
though exposed to the rays of the sun, in the 
centre of the torrid zone, are covered with 
everlasting snows.* 

The city of Santiago was also before us, to- 
gether with a most extensive plain, beautiful- 
ly interspersed with villages, rivers, and little 
hills. These rivers are supplied from the snow, 
which descends from the Andes. The Maypo- 
cho, irrigating the country adjacent to the city, 
the Mayho and Colinaat the distance of six or 
seven leagues N. and S. render in their respec- 
tive districts similar benefits. 

Descended into the plain, it was with great 
difficulty my companion (notwithftanding 
the acquisition of a frefh horse) could travel, 
therefore on reaching a house three leagues 
from the city, and being wholly inadequate to 
pursue his journey, 1 put him to bed. It was 



* Robertson's History of South America, Book IV. 
page 4. 



164 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

now late in the evening, and not willing to 
leave him, I tarried also. The genera! dish for 
travellers was soon prepared, and after I had 
eaten heartily, I endeavoured to sleep, but it 
was a vain attempt, for the fleas attacked me in 
such numbers, that I was obliged to retreat 
from the house, and fortunately 1 discovered a 
cart with some ftraw, which being free from 
these vermin, I slept profoundly until the 
morning, when I proceeded on to the city, 
and reached the hospitable mansion of Sen. 
Dona Camilita Ramenz de Inquerda. Here I 
found every thing ready for my reception, 
every thing I could wish, and away from Eng- 
land, I never spent my time so much to my 
satisfaction. 

1 must now take a brief view of Santiago 
and its vicinity. This city named in compli- 
ment to St. James, the patron of Spain, is si- 
tuated in nearly 33° 4.5 ' south latitude, and 
about four or five leagues to the. west of the 
Cordilleras or Andes, which run from North 
to South, through the whole of South Ameri- 
ca. The plain in which it Hands, is of une- 
qualled fertility, and not of less extent than 
thirty to thirty-five leagues in circumference, 
bounded on the east by the Amies, on the 
west by the mountain of Prado ; by the river 



briton's voyage. 165 

Colina on the North, and on the South by the 
May ho. 

Peter de Baklivia when he conquered this 
country, finding a considerable village of In- 
dians on the banks of the Maypoeho,, laid the 
foundation of St. Jago, on this luxuriant spot, 
in the year 1541, and following the example of 
Pizarro, with that of Lima, laid it out in 
squares of 150 yards each way, with streets 
about 30 feet wide, running at right angles, 
and neatly paved with smooth pebbie (tones ; 
and from the conftant supply of water con- 
ducted to each, by means of canals from the 
river, they might, with a comparatively small 
portion of trouble, be of unequalled cleanli- 
ness. There are few cities pofferTing this ad- 
vantage, and as few whose inhabitants do not 
appreciate it. 

"The streets which run" says Frazier "from 
east to west, receive their water from the first 
canals of the river, and those which cross from 
North to South, from those which run in the 
middle of the squares, across the gardens and 
streets, under little bridges from whence it is 
caused to flow out. " Were it not for that re- 
lief" continues he " the gardens would pro- 
duce nothing for want of rain for eight months 
in the year, whereas by this means the city af- 



166 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

fords all the delight of the country in relation 
to fruit, and herbs ; in the day the cool (hade, 
and night the sweet scents of the orange flow- 
ers, and floridondoes, which perfume the 
houses. " 

The houses are spacious and elegant, not- 
withstanding they have only a ground floor. 
Each has a large square court in front, and a 
garden behind, and some contain many fami- 
lies. The city possesses no fortification, and 
is open at every point but the East, where 
stands the mountain of St. Lucia, which might 
be occupied to great advantage. Near the 
centre is the Placa Real, or Royal Square, on 
the west side of which, is the Cathedral (now, 
rebuilding,) and Bifhop's Palace, the North 
is occupied by the Palace of the President, 
the royal court, council house, and prison. 
Ofthese, the two firstare handsome buildings. 
On the east is the market, and a beggarly row 
of empty shops, and what they call a row of 
handsome porticos from the South, but the 
shops under these porticos are very respecta- 
ble. There is also a gallery on this side, for 
the purpose of viewing the turns or bull 
fights, which are occasionally exhibited here. 
In the middle of this square, Hands a fountain 
of brass, and 1 dare say was once as handsome 



BRITON'S VOYAGE. 167 

as many writers have described it, but its pre- 
sent appearance does not justify me in drawing 
any such conclusion. 

The market I attended regularly, and found 
it well supplied with every article of subfis- 
tence, and meat much superior to what I ex- 
pected. The custom-house, and exchange, 
are superior buildings, but the mint in point 
of elegance, eclipses any other I saw in South 
America. Its interior is laid out to greater 
advantage than that at Lima, though the ma- 
chinery with which it is worked is nearly the 
same. The governor of this place, as I have 
already said of Lima, can order the execution 
of any man within his goverment, without 
consulting with, or having the approbation of 
the President. He is absolute monarch within 
his walls. 

There are many churches here, handsome 
alone from the quantity of gilding about the 
various altars, neither of which can be com- 
pared, for beauty or elegance, to those at Li- 
ma. Here like all other places, where bigotry 
and superftition are predominant features, they 
tell you marvellous flories relative to their dif- 
ferent images or saints. That one was seen 
to shed tears of blood — another to kneel — a 
third to wave its hand at the approach of a pro- 
fane person ; and they believe or fain to be- 



168 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

lieve every thing they relate. However, the 
seed of luxury, and consequently contempt, 
which is rapidly disseminating itself in the 
church, could easily be perceived, for those vo- 
taries of idolatry, who but a few years ago 
thought it sacrilege to prostrate themselves be- 
fore the altars of their Tutelar Saints, but upon 
bare stones, have now servants to attend them 
with soft velvet cushions, which has more the 
appearance of repose than devotion. To the 
box, even of the father confefTor, these articles 
are also taken. 

This city possesses several monafteries, both 
for men and women, but they are neither spa- 
cious, nor handsome, and resemble those of 
Lima only in the conduct of their inmates; 
for, I was assured from the most respectable 
authority, that the monks, as well as nuns, live 
the most profligate and licentious lives it is 
poflible to conceive, and notwithstanding they 
appear to carry under their cloaks or veils, 
the most rigid religion, when in their cloifters 
they throw off their pious mafks, and give 
themselves up to the illicit enjoyment of those 
paflions, which, from their oaths, they are not 
only bound to detect in others, but renounce 
themselves. This I am fully authorised to 
say, for 1 have now in my posseflion the most 
irrefragable proofs of their guilt ; but, says 



briton's voyage. 169 

Dr. Robertson when speaking of the priests, 
' 6 the giddy, the profligate, the avaricious, to 
whom the rigid discipline of a convent is into- 
lerable, confider a million to America, as a re- 
lief from mortification and bondage. There 
they soon obtain some parochial charge ; and. by 
their situation far removed from the inspection 
of their monaitic superiors, and exempt, by their 
character, from the jurisdiction of their dioce- 
san, they are hardly subject to control Ac- 
cording to the teftimony of the most zealous ca- 
tholics, many of the regular clergy in the Spa- 
nish settlements, are not only destitute of the vir- 
tues becoming their profefli n, but regardless of 
that external decorum and respect, for the opi- 
nion of mankind, which preserve a semblance of 
worth, where the reality is wanting. Secure of 
impunity, some regulars, in contempt of their vow 
ef poverty, engage openly in commerce, and are 
so rapaciously eager in amassing wealth, that 
they become the most grievous oppressors of the 
Indians, whom it is their duty to have protected. 
Others with no less flagrant violation of their 
vow of chastity, indulge with little disguise in 
the most dissolute licentiousness" 

The river Maypocho is in every part fbrdable, 
excepting in the rainy season, or when the snow 
on the mountains melts the most, when it in- 
creases to so enormous a degree, that it has been 

z 



I/O A NARRATIVE OF THE 

necessary to build a wall on its left bank, to pre- 
vent any injury being done by its great overflow. 
Its course is very rapid. This wall is perpendi- 
cular on each side, about ten feet high, with 
numerous flights of fteps leading to the top, 
where there is only sufficient room for two or 
three people to walk conveniently abreast each 
other. The trees on the inside form a very plea- 
sant fhelter from the oppressive rays of the sun 
throughout ths day. It is called the Tacamar, 
which literally means, to bind or keep back the 
sea. During two hours of the evening, it is the 
fafhionable resort of the Belles and Beaux of the 
city, and had it been well arranged at firft, it 
would unqueftionably have been the most de- 
lightful promenade in that country. Two parties 
cannot meet, without the one greatly inconveni- 
encing the other, and as there is no walk so pleas- 
ing to the fair, this must conftantly occur. The 
bridge which crosses the Maypocho, has eight 
arches, is well built, and handsome. 

During the time of the Patri, or revolution, 
several wise institutions took place, and to every 
art or science the greatest encouragement was 
given, the whole of which, without reserve, was 
destroyed immediately on the return of the Spa- 
niards to power ; and this extensive city cannot 
now boast of a school or seminary calculated to 
expand the mind or enlighten the understand- 



briton's voyage. 171 

ing ; neither does any one dare to keep a book, 
or read one, under a heavy penalty, which has 
not been approved of by the inquisitor fiscal, or 
one of his satellites; and even the Bibles and 
Testaments from the Bible Society, which were 
promulgated with so much assiduity by Capt. 
Hellier, were, immediately after his departure, 
collected by order of the bishop, and publicly 
burnt. 

The inhabitants are voluptuous and indolent, 
possessing good natural abilities, if properly cul- 
tivated. The women, who are generally the 
best informed, study to rival each other in the 
personal accomplishments of their children, 
without paying the least attention to a single 
mental one ; and if their darling boy can strut 
with grace — adjust his cocked hat — gamble — 
waltz, and dance a minuet, — it is matter of little 
consequence, if he knows not the Andes from the 
Alps ; and at maturity he becomes, like his fa- 
ther, too lazy to improve his mind : and too proud 
and ignorant to allow another to be a superior 
genius to himself. To this alone can they at- 
tribute the loss of that liberty, of which for 
three years, they were the entire possessors. 
The women are pretty, interesting, and docile . 
the men proud, vindictive, revengeful. The 
character of the Spaniard is inherent in them, 



172 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

except his duplicity J in which they aie making 
rapid strides to attain. 

The fashionable hour for visiting, is from ten 
to twelve at riigtit; They amuse themselves at 
cards or dancing until a late hour, when they 
return, make a hasty supper, go immediately to 
bed, and if they are up a couple of hours before 
dinner, it may be considered a wonderful exer- 
tion. They retire again from three, until six or 
seven, and after a short walk on the Tacamar, 
and a little refreshment of preserves, lemonade, 
&c. &c. they again prepare to visit — some the 
Tertulia,* others their friends, and many to fly 
into the arms of their lovers, who are, perhaps, 
waiting with anxiety at the secret place of as- 
signation. Thus it is, then, their days and 
nights roll away, and I am persuaded there are 
few who, possessing enough to satiate their va- 
nity or lust to-day, calculate on the approach of 
to-morrow. The women, when young, dress 
elegantly ; but at a more advanced age they be- 
come such huge monsters, or rather lumps of fat, 
that any thing elegant loses its effect the instant 
it is applied ; to this there are but few ex- 
ceptions. 

The population of Santiago does not exceed, I 



A gambling-house. 



briton's voyage. 173 

suppose, 50,000 souls, although it is computed 
to be considerably more. There are a great 
many slaves, and they are treated with great 
humanity. 

The country, extending towards the River 
Maypo, Colina and Cordillera Mountains, is 
part icularly beautiful and of uncommon fertility. 
It is almost a continuation of cuintas^ or country 
seats belonging to gentlemen of the city, to 
which they make frequent excursions, or occa- 
sionally retire, as may be most suited to their 
convenience or taste. 

There is a road of communication across the 
Cordilleras, between Santiago and Buenos Ayres, 
but for four months it is shut up by the frost, 
and is at all times difficult to pass. I was given 
to understand, unless the mules, as well as 
guides, are experienced, it is exceedingly dan- 
gerous, the precipices and chasms being of such 
stupendous height or depth. Mendoca is the 
first town you arrive at on the eastern side, 
when it is a continual plain to the River de la 
Plata. 

The few towns, worthy of notice in the coun- 
try of Chili, are Valparaiso Penco, or Concep- 
tion, Cossiepo, Coquimboj Chilan Quillo, Acon- 
% caqua, Rancaqua Mablie, St. John tie la Cordil- 
leria, and Mendoca. The latter being now in 
possession of the patriots, as well as on the east 



174 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

side of t the Cordilleras, I think, ought no longer 
to be numbered among the cities of Chili. These 
towns are not very populous, and principally 
of Mestizoes, Mulattoes, and Indians. 

The governor of this kingdom is styled the 
President, but acts in subordination to the Vice- 
roy of Lima; however, from the remoteness of the 
situation, as well as not having a convenient com- 
munication with that city, it may be said he is 
quite independent. The residence is always at 
Santiago, where he is at the head of a court, 
consisting of four judges, two attorney-generals, 
with others of subordinate rank, such as reporters, 
secretaries, &c. &c. 

During my visit at this city, an order arrived 
for the re-establishment of the tribunal of Inqui- 
sition, and which was to be put in force at an 
early period. This court is subordinate to the 
Limanan one, which sends to Santiago a com- 
missary general, with a necessary number of 
officers, who are distributed at the different 
towns, where " they employ themselves/' says 
Frazier, "upon matters of sorcerers true or false, 
and certain crimes, the cognizance whereof be- 
longs to the Inquisition, as polygamy, &c. As 
for heretics, I am sure none fall into their hands. 
They there study so little, that they are not sub- 
ject to run astray through too much curiosity ; 
only the desire to distinguish themselves from 



briton's voyage. 175 

others by an honourable title, make some church- 
men learn a little school divinity and morality, 
to bear the name of a Licentiate, or Doctor, 
which the Dominicans and the. Jesuits confer by 
a privilege obtained from the Pope, though 
there is no university established at Santiago ; 
but these titles are to be had of them so easily, 
that there are some among the licentiates who 
know little Latin, which they do not look upon 
as necessary for attaining the sciences." 

Whether this writer's observations be just or 
not, I shall not pretend to determine; but I can 
say, that on its being made public, that this 
merciless court was a^ain restored to its original 
functions, it diffused a general gloom on the 
countenance of every individual, of whatever 
class or society. I heard no remark made on the 
subject ; it was prudent perhaps to be silent. 

Earthquakes, or tremblor de tierres, are fre- 
quently felt throughout Chili, and often very 
alarming; in fact, the city, as well as the other 
towns, bear evident proofs of it in the structure 
of their houses ; for they are seldom built of a 
second story, and always with materials well cal- 
culated to withstand a sudden shock — such as 
long unburnt bricks, inlaid with cane, or other 
stuff of equal elasticity. Among those which 
have happened here, the most severe was in 
1647 9 when nearly the whole city was destroyed, 



176 A NARRATIVE OF THE 

as well as the greater part of the inhabitants, for 
those who were not swallowed up in the vortex 
of this convulfion of nature, became victims to 
the disease which followed ; as the air was, for 
a considerable period, contaminated by ex- 
halations the moil unwholesome. Historians 
say "The earth continued to tremble for three 
succeflive days". I felt the mock of one only, 
and it was very inconsiderable. 

The country throughout, is very rich in ores 
of every description, particularly gold, silver, 
and copper, but neither of the mines are now 
worked to any extent, from the internal commo- 
tions, and various revolutions the country has 
undergone, during these last four or five years. 
1 did not go to the mines, and as there was not a 
single mineralogist in the country, 1 was not so 
successful in procuring specimens as at Lima. 

It was but a few days after my arrival at St. 
Jago, that a report was in circulation of ships 
of war being seen off Conception, which 
was followed by the news of the Englifh squa- 
dron having left the port of Valparaiso, in pur- 
suit of them. My feelings, at being left behind, 
can be with sweater ease conceived than describ- 
ed,for though I was in a house where every thing 
was at my disposal, I could not but regret being 
absent, when my presence might have been use- 
ful ; however, these men of war proved to be 



„s 



BRITON S VOYAGE. 17^ 

clouds, and in a fortnight, the Briton and squa- 
dron had returned, when I, wiihing to secure a 
paffage to England, ordered my guide to prepare 
the horses for darting, and after a journey simi- 
lar to the one I described in the beginning of 
this chapter, I arrived on board, where 1 found, 
to my great satisfaction, my old friends as I left 
them, all well, and with me anxious to redouble 
Cape Horn, and return to that happy country, 
which pofTelfed the different objects of our affec- 
tion, and whose worth could only be appreciated 
in so remote a region. 



5 A 




CONCLUSION. 

The morning of the 28th of March, when we 
quitted the port of Valparaiso, was of unequall- 
ed serenity, but the wind soon veered round to 
the southward, and occasioned us again to make 
the Island of Juan Fernandez. Here the breeze 
became propitious, and as we increased our 
southern latitude, so did it increase in ftrength, 
and on the 13th April we were in the latitude of 
Cape Horn. The weather had now become 
tempeftuous, and the sea rolled from the pole in 
heavy waves, which roared as they daflied them- 
selves against the inhospitable mores of Terra del 
Fuego, and Statten Island, but, notwithstanding 
this, and our ignorance of the entrance of the 
ftraights Le Maire, it was the intention of Sir 
Thomas to regain the Atlantic by that passage. 
The fog which had hovered over the land, clear- 
ing away, we discovered ourselves a little to the 
eastward of the entrance, and it was with diffi- 
culty we could gain it without being carried by 
the curreni upon Statten Island, whose shores 
bore a molt terrific appearance. Scarcely had 
we weathered the rock, and opened the ftraights, 



CONCLUSION. 179 

when a sudden guft of wind carried away the 
main-yard in the flings ; but the point was very 
fortunately gained, and we were soon wafted 
through into the great Atlantic Ocean, when the 
carpenters were set to work on the main-yard, 
and on the fourth day the jish was compleated, 
and it was again aloft. The Tagus, our consort, not 
being able to follow us through the ftraights, bore 
up, and went to the eastward of Statten Island. 
Nor did she join us again until the 27th of April, 
when we arrived off the harbour of Rio de Jane- 
iro. In this port we found Admiral Dixon with 
his squadron preparing to sail for England ; our 
refit was expedited as much as poflible, and on 
the 14th of May, we all weighed anchor for our 
return to this country. During our tedious 
voyage back, we were first informed of Napole- 
on's return from Elba to France, which, was foon 
followed by an account of his disafters at the me- 
morable battle of Waterloo, but we were not put 
in polTeffion of the particulars until the 7th of 
July 1815, which period brought His Majefty's 
(hip Briton, in safety at Plymouth, and conse- 
quently me, to the conclusion of my narrative. 



J. W. Marriott, Printer, East-Street, Taunton. 







DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER 



1 Patokee, Frontispiece . 

2 Colgotha, to face 4th Page. 

3 Rio Janeiro, 8tb. 

4 Aqueduct, ib. 

5 Taguca, 14th. 

6 Kicker Rocks 31st. 

7 Captain Watson shewing ^^-.j 

his Irons, J 

S Christiana, 75th. 

9 Pitcairn's Island, 81st. 

10 Christian, 96th. 

] 1 View of Callao, } 

12 Lady of Lima, ( in one plate to face 7th Chap- 

13 Sepulchre for Children,^ ter. 

14 View of Lima, 3 

15 Juan Fernandez, 152nd. 

16 Section, 155th. 



N. B. There arc in the vthole 15 Etchings instead of 18, as mentioned 
in the Title Page. 



ERRATA. 



Page 


Jam 


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bid ••. bade 

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affair affairs 

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